Four old Columned houses, shorn
of their porches and their
little front yards and iron
palings, and no longer homes,
are all that is left of the
glory that was Lafayette Place.
These four houses, of the
original nine which constituted
La Grange Terrace, or Colonnade
Row, as it was later called, are
directly opposite the old Astor
Library building. The last of
them were abandoned as
residences in 1915, (the present
numbers are 430 and 432), which
under the name of the Oriental,
a famous boarding house opened
in 1851, clung on like
Casabianca. It is a sad
commentary on our American
cities that no better use can be
found for buildings of
architectural charm and enduring
construction than to tear them
down.
La Grange Terrace was built
of marble, so well and solidly
laid that when the southern five
houses were demolished a little
over a decade and a half ago
(they stood where the new
Wanamaker store house is now
erected), dynamite had to be
employed. Architecturally, they
were unique in New York, their
American counterpart being the
old Charleston Hotel, in
Charleston, South Carolina. The
ground story projected six or
eight feet, and was
comparatively low with pretty
porches. This ground story was
solid masonry, making the
windows deeply recessed. It
supported, in front, tall fluted
columns which ran up two stories
high and carried a heavy cornice
of solid stone.
There were still two other
stories above this cornice,
invisible from the street. Along
the base of these columns ran a
wrought iron rail, and the low
windows of the second story
parlors let out upon the stone
balcony thus formed. Inside, the
houses were (and two at least of
those that remain, are) adorned
with mahogany doors on silver
hinges, doors which have not
sagged half an inch in nearly a
century, with elaborate plaster
work, marble mantles, and
stately Greek columns of wood
between the large parlors. As
far as solidity and perfection
of construction goes, these
houses could probably not be
duplicated today without a
tremendous expenditure of money.
Yet the town sweeps by them, and
all this splendid masonry, this
monument to the taste of an
elder day, goes by the board!
Lafayette Place
Lafayette Place was cut through
from Great Jones Street to Astor
Place in 1826. Eastward the
Bowery was "farthest north," and
on the west Broadway practically
ended at Astor Place. From the
last years of the 18th century,
the space between, at the upper
end, had been used as a pleasure
ground, called Vauxhall Garden,
with various forms of
entertainment purveyed after
1804 by a Frenchman named
Delacroix. It had previously
been owned by a Swiss florist
named Jacob Sperry. He sold the
plot in 1804 to John Jacob
Astor, for $45,000, and Astor
gave a twenty-one year lease to
Delacroix.
The laying out of Lafayette
Place in 1826 of course cut
directly through this property,
and the garden shrank to the
easterly half, between the
present Astor Library building
and Astor Place. Shortly after,
in 1830, a man named Seth Geer,
much to the amusement or scorn
of many, began the erection of
La Grange Terrace, on the west
side of the new Place. Such
palatial residences far from
town were looked upon as folly;
but Geer persisted (incidentally
causing something of a rumpus
among the stone cutters trade by
securing his stone by convict
labor from Sing Sing), and
presently men and women began to
come up here "into the fields"
to see the magnificent houses,
which were rising in solitary
splendor. Probably at the same
time the trees which later
almost met over the little
street were set out, and the
rather remote spot began to
assume attractiveness. At any
rate, Geer's folly turned out to
be wisdom, for very soon after
Lafayette Place began rapidly to
attract the rich and
fashionable.
The Middle Dutch Church
In November, 1836, the
cornerstone of the Reformed
Dutch Church was laid, on the
northwest corner of Lafayette
Place and Fourth Street, and the
building was dedicated in 1839.
It was called "the Middle Dutch
Church." The building was
strictly Greek, with twelve
splendid granite monoliths on
the portico, the only monoliths
in the city then, or for years
thereafter. A poor wooden spire,
out of keeping, surmounted this
Greek temple, and years later
was destroyed by fire to nearly
everybody's' relief. The
building was razed in the early
'90's, and the monoliths
destroyed, an inexcusable piece
of stupid legal vandalism. St.
Bartholomew's church, on the
northeast corner of Lafayette
Place and Great Jones Street,
was also built in 1836, a small
congregation at first attending
it. But it rapidly grew larger
and more fashionable. Ultimately
it moved to Madison Avenue and
44th Street, and even now is
about to move a third time,
three removals in less than a
century. What other city on the
globe is so restless?
Opposite the centre of La
Grange Terrace
About opposite the centre of La
Grange Terrace, which, of
course, was occupied now by
families of wealth, William B.
Astor, son of John Jacob,
presently erected his mansion, a
substantial, block-like brick
building not unlike those on
North Washington Square.
Immediately south was the Sands
House, built by Austin Ledyard
Sands, of severe gray granite.
Both these residences were
visible within recent memory,
the Astor home in after years
being noted as Seighortner's
restaurant. In the Terrace, in
Number 33 (the second
southernmost house) lived Irving
Van Wart, with whom his
relative, Washington Irving,
spent many winters. In Number 43
lived the Honorable David
Gardiner, whose daughter Julia
was there married. In 1844, to
President John Tyler. Edwin D.
Morgan, later the New York war
governor, lived at Number 35.
Next door lived John Jacob
Astor, son of William B. Astor.
Later, in the same house, the
Columbia Law School was founded.
An Astor son-in-law.
Franklin H. Delano, lived in
number 39. Farther north, on the
corner of Astor Place, was a
large house built by the elder
John Jacob Astor for his
daughter, Mrs. Walter Langdon.
It had an elaborate ball room,
and a garden surrounded by a
high wall. Walter Langdon, the
younger, who married Catherine
Livingston, built a house almost
directly opposite, which stood
there almost into this century,
directly south of Brokaw's old
clothing store. The Langdon
mansion on the west side was
demolished about 1875. All up
and down the Place similar
houses, in the two decades
following the opening of the
street, were erected and
occupied by the wealthy and
fashionable New Yorkers of the
time. St. Bartholomew's Church,
on the Great Jones Street
corner, became noted as the
church of "society" weddings.
Dinners and balls were the rule
in the season, and the street
was alive with the roll of gay
carriages. The houses on the
west had stables and gardens
behind, reached by an alley from
Broadway, and those on the east
were reached by a similar alley
from the Bowery. Meanwhile
Vauxhall Gardens persisted,
though restricted now to a small
area on the east side of the
Place at the northerly end of
the present Astor Library
building.
The Astor Library
John Jacob Astor the elder died
in 1848, and in 1853 his
memorial, the Astor Library, was
completed, one third of the
present structure. Two additions
were later given by his family,
in 1855, and 1875. What will
become of the building, a rather
mournful and gloomy pile, now
that the books have gone to the
central depository of the New
York Public Library, is a
question not yet solved.
Numbers 43 and 45
In 1851, Israel Underhill opened
in the two houses of La Grange
Terrace, Numbers 43 and 45, a
family hotel, for people of
wealth who did not care to keep
house. This was known as The
Oriental, and was destined to be
the last survivor of domesticity
on Lafayette Place. Fashion was
still, at that time, centered
about the tree hung street. In
1856, the Schermerhorns who
lived at the corner of Great
Jones Street, gave a "bal
costume de rigeur" of the reign
of Louis XV, which certainly
would have increased the
membership of the Socialist
party if there had been a
Socialist party in those days.
"Mr. S___ff's costume" (we quote
from a contemporary account),
"diamonds included, cost it is
said, $17,000." At Astor Place,
too, stood the Opera House,
facing down Lafayette Place, but
the McCready-Forrest riots in
1849 rather put the damper on
that institution, and not long
after it was converted into the
Mercantile Library.
Lafayette Place Affected by
the Expansion of The City
The expansion of the city
following the Civil War affected
Lafayette Place seriously as a
residence street, in spite of
the fact that it was tucked away
between the Bowery and Broadway,
and was not a through
thoroughfare. Backing up to it
on Broadway came the theatre
(where Wanamaker's new
storehouse and garage is now),
which, originally a church, had
a checkered career, finally
ending up as a prize fight
arena. The later additions to
the Astor Library had put out
the little colored lights and
smothered the tables in Vauxhall
Gardens. In 1872 St.
Bartholomew's Church moved away.
In 1875 a loft building replaced
the Langdon mansion. The five
southern houses of La Grange
Terrace became the Colonnade
Hotel (with an entrance, still
remembered, on Broadway). Just
south of them another house
became the Diocesan House of the
Episcopal Church of New York.
The Astor Mansion was
converted into Sieghortner's
restaurant. The trees still
stood, and the noble monoliths
of the church on the corner of
Fourth Street, but the decay of
the street had obviously set in.
By the beginning of the present
century the monoliths had gone,
the five houses of the famous
terrace which made up the
Colonnade Hotel had been
destroyed (leaving a vacant lot
which was not built up till last
year), and across the way many
of the old houses had been
replaced by business structures,
or else converted into trade and
made ugly and almost
unrecognizable. The final blow
came with the building of the
subway. Lafayette Place was cut
through south from Great Jones
Street, rechristened Lafayette
Street, paved with noisy Belgian
block, and used as a through
artery for heavy traffic. Its
doom as a place of residence was
sealed.
The Houses numbered 430 and
432
But the two houses now numbered
430 and 432, the middle two of
the four survivals of La Grange
Terrace, still bore the gold
sign, "The Oriental," over the
door, and the great Virginia
creeper climbed the stone
columns to the roof. Two
daughters of Israel Underhill
still kept the house, almost,
one might say, kept the faith.
They kept it even when, a few
years later, the Street
Commission made them strip off
the porches and the little green
front yards, to widen the
sidewalk. The panes in the
windows were turning faintly
purple, like the glass on Beacon
Hill. The mahogany doors still
swung on noiseless silver
hinges. The elderly men and
women who had come to look on
the Oriental as home and many a
visiting Bishop who welcomed the
proximity to the Diocesan House,
still filled the rooms. And, on
every Memorial Day, the old,
torn flag which had flown from
the house during the bitter
years of the Civil War, when the
Seventh had formed in Lafayette
Place to march to the front,
draped the iron balcony rail.
These two houses were an oasis
of an elder day in the heart of
the lower town.
But even these two brave old
ladies gave up the struggle at
last, and retired from the
racket and dust of truck
traffic, the surrounding hum of
sweat shops, to the quiet of the
country. That was in 1915. "The
Oriental," is no more. The last
residence has been abandoned on
Lafayette Place, and only four
dingy stone relics of the nine
columnar houses which once made
La Grange Terrace remain to
speak to the passerby of its
ancient glory. Not a tree is
left, not a vine.
But one vine still lives. The
writer has a root of that great
Virginia Creeper which climbed
over 43, and 45, and it is
flourishing still. The war flag,
too, still is draped from a
balcony on every Decoration Day.
But vine and balcony are far
away from Lafayette Place. The
scene when Astor walked stiffly
down to Great Jones Street, on
his way to Wall, when gay
carriages rolled under the trees
and the colored lamps twinkled
in Vauxhall Gardens, lives only
in the memories of a few old
people. Nothing is permanent in
New York but change!