New York Times Building
On the triangular block between
Broadway and Seventh Avenue is
the high building of the New
York Times, from which the open
space from Forty-third to
Forty-seventh streets gets its
name of Times Square. The plot
was occupied with a block of
two-story buildings, containing
a private school and several
quiet stores, which seemed to be
almost out of the business of
the vicinity. About 1890, a
hotel-keeper named Regan erected
a building on the south side of
the plot and ran it with a bar
and famous Rathskeller.
In 1900, the underground
railway was commenced, and The
Regan building was one of the
earliest of the skeleton, steel
and concrete construction, and
its demolition after about ten
years of existence was watched
by the architects and civil
engineers with a great deal of
interest in order to see the
effect upon the steel framing.
As it was torn to pieces, it was
found that everything was as
good as the day it was put into
the building. An immense, deep
hole in the solid rock was
necessary for the new building;
for the subway was to pass under
it, and its foundations were to
carry not only the Times
building itself, but the tracks
of the subway also, and to be
able to withstand the vibrations
of the passing trains. In many
respects therefore, the building
is one of the most wonderful in
New York; and until the Singer
building was erected, it was the
highest structure in the city,
if we figure from the lowest
foundations, where the presses
are located to the top of its
high tower.
Long Acre Square
For many years before this open
space became Times Square, it
was the location of businesses
connected with the manufacture
and repair of carriages and
harness; and in imitation of the
locality in London devoted to
similar activities, it was
popularly, though not
officially, known as "Long Acre
Square." Then it became devoted
to the automobile industry, but
now even that has departed to
the section above.
A Revolutionary Event
On the fifteenth of
September, 1776, the British
landed at Kip's Bay from Long
Island with the intention of
cutting off the American Army,
then in full retreat. The
greater part of the army was
well up on the Bloomingdale
Road, but Putnam with four
thousand troops was still in the
city. Washington despairingly
attempted to prevent the landing
of the British on the shore of
the East River, but his troops
fled almost before a shot was
fired. Word had been sent to
Putnam to join the chief, and he
hurried his troops out of the
city. Guided by Aaron Burr over
the Middle Road from the
fortifications above Canal
Street, he managed to escape the
cordon of British troops being
thrown across the island and
joined the chief on the
Bloomingdale Road at this point,
barely getting through in the
nick of time. A tablet to
commemorate this joyful meeting
of the two generals was erected
on the west side of the square
some years ago by the Sons of
the Revolution.
Farm Lands
The section of Broadway from
Forty-fifth to Seventy-first
Street was laid out and widened
under a series of acts beginning
about 1845 and extending to
1869. For some time after the
earlier of these dates, the
Bloomingdale Road was a country
lane, lined with farm lands and
homesteads. Continuing above on
the east side as far as
Sixty-fifth Street we find farms
belonging to Medeef Eden, Emmet
(to about Forty-ninth Street),
Andrew Hopper, Cornelius Harsen,
Deborah Burton, Catherine
Cosine, Jane Ackerman, Rachel
Cosine, and John H. Tallman. On
the west side for the same
distance were farms belonging to
John Jacob Astor, (a portion of
the Eden farm on which the Hotel
Astor now stands), Francis
Church, Philip Weber, Andrew
Hopper, Striker, Jacob Hayes,
John Cosine, Hegeman, Sarah
Slack, and Havemeyer. Many of
these farms extended down to the
Hudson River even in 1800, and
most of them had originally done
so, but had been divided up
among new owners; and even the
names given here might not
answer for a different period.
Old Hopper Farm
During the spring of 1910 real
estate interests were especially
active in connection with the
old Hopper farm which was on
both sides of the road. The
first of the name was Andries
Hoppe, who came to New
Netherlands in 1652. His son,
Mathjes Adolphus Hoppe, bought a
farm extending diagonally across
the road between Forty-eighth
and Fifty-fifth streets down to
the shore of the Hudson River.
His heirs inherited the property
, which in time became divided
up among them and passed to
other owners. One of the old
Hopper homesteads stood for a
century and a half at Fiftieth
Street and Broadway until 1883,
when William H;. Vanderbilt
bought the property, and the old
house was razed to make way for
the American Horse Exchange.
Andrew Hopper (1736-1824), for
whom this house had been built
by his father, John Hopper, the
second owner, was a merchant of
New York, having a place of
business in Chatham Street. His
town house was at Ann Street and
Broadway, the Hampden Hall of
the Liberty Boys, which later
became the site of Scudder's and
Barnum's museums.
Theatrical Enterprises
The first theatrical enterprise
to locate in this vicinity was
the large structure on the east
side of Broadway between
Forty-fourth and Forty-fifth
streets, erected by Oscar
Hammerstein upon the site of a
building which had been the
armory of the Seventy-first
Regiment. Under one roof, there
were a great music hall, a
concert hall, and a theatre, the
intention being to admit to all
for one entrance fee. It was
known as Hammerstein's Olympia,
and the first performance was
given in the Lyric Theatre on
November 25, 1893. The
management passed from
Hammerstein; and the music hall
part became the New York Theatre
in December, 1898, while the
Lyric became, on August 29,
1899, the Criterion, under the
management of Charles Frohman.
Within the last few years, a new
course has been pursued in
theatrical management in New
York and throughout the country.
The tendency has been for a
great many theatres to come into
the control of a few managers or
firms, constituting what has
been termed the "Theatrical
Trust"; so that dramatic
companies outside the
combination have sometimes had
difficulty in getting into New
York houses. Another marked
change has been the increase in
the price of seats, and the
elegance of the newer theatres.
It is a far cry from the
thirteen, twenty-five, and fifty
cents of the best theatres of
half a century ago to the
dollar, dollar and a half, and
two dollars of the present; and
these prices are nearly always
supplemented by an additional
dollar paid to the ticket
speculators who manage,
notwithstanding the advertised
efforts of the box-offices, to
get the best seats in the house
before any one else has a chance
at them.
On the streets opening out of
Times Square, and within a
radius of half a mile, are
numerous theatres erected within
the past five years. Among those
on Broadway itself, are the
Globe, above Forty-sixth Street,
the Astor, at the corner of
Forty-fifth Street, and the
Gaiety, at the corner of
Forty-sixth--all on the west
side; Cohan's, on the east side
between Forty-second and
Forty-third streets, and still
others are projected for the
immediate future. To be
bromidic: "It's hard work to
keep track of them; they spring
up like mushrooms, almost in a
single night."
With so many theatrical
enterprises located on Broadway,
it is natural that plays should
be written about the great
thoroughfare. Two of
them--comedies, of course--are
The Man Who Owns Broadway, and
Forty-Five Minutes from
Broadway. Numerous songs have
sounded the glory of the street
and have become popular. When
the American fleet on its world
encircling cruise of 1908-9 left
New Zealand, the farewell song
of our English cousins of the
Antipodes was Give my Regards to
Broadway, a song that stirred
the heart of every American
sailor, as he remembered, or
anticipated, the joys of the
great highway. There is the
Majestic at Fifty-eighth Street,
the Circle at Sixtieth, the
Colonial at Sixty-second, and
the Lincoln Square where
Broadway crosses Columbus Avenue
at Sixty-Sixth. The houses are
generally devoted to vaudeville,
light opera, moving pictures,
and similar entertainments that
do not call for anything from
their audiences except laughter.
Fashionable Restaurants and
Hotels
Among the fashionable
restaurants and hotels located
here for several years are
Shanley's, Rector's,
Churchill's, the Hotel Cadillac,
and the Hotel Astor. Several of
these are putting up new
buildings, so that in another
year or so there will be a group
of some of the finest hostelries
in New York. The side streets
contiguous to Times Square are
also devoted to restaurants and
theatres. The celebration of New
Year's Eve in this neighborhood
has become, so it is stated in
the daily papers and by those
who have been present, a grand
orgy after midnight, putting to
blush the wildest capers of the
Moulin Rouge, Maxim's and other
notorious places in Paris. For
this occasion it is necessary to
engage tables a long time ahead,
and in the way of drink nothing
but champagne is served upon the
night of the thirty-first of
December.
A) Hotel Rector
Rector's new hotel and
restaurant at the southeast
corner of Forty-fifth Street was
opened on the twenty-seventh of
December, 1910. It cost upwards
of three millions of dollars,
but its construction is
remarkable for the speed with
which the old buildings were
torn down and the new one
erected and furnished--all
within a period of eleven
months.
B) Hotel Astor
The most prominent building on
the west side of the square is
the Hotel Astor, situated on the
old Eden farm and belonging to
the Astor estate. It was opened
in September, 1904, by William
Muschenheim, formerly steward,
or commissary, at West Point,
who had for several years
previous run a restaurant, very
popular with college and similar
societies, called "The Arena,"
in West Thirty-second Street
near Broadway. Mr. Muschenheim
has one of the finest private
collections of maps, documents,
papers, and prints relating to
old New York to be found in the
city, and many of these are
exposed on the walls of the
hotel. The hotel is probably the
most popular and moderate priced
of the really first-class hotels
in New York. It has sheltered
many ambassadors, special
embassies, and distinguished
foreigners, and is the favorite
banqueting place of many
societies, including some
composed entirely of women.
Other Points Of Interest
The triangular block at
Forty-seventh Street, Broadway
and Seventh Avenue, now occupied
by Floyd & Co., Auctioneers, was
formerly the site of St.
Martin's Hall, inaugurated
February 11, 1850, for lectures,
assemblies, and other social
affairs for the up-town folks.
The plot cannot long remain in
its present condition, and a
theatre or hotel will some day
soon occupy the site. Above
Forty-seventh Street, the
thoroughfare is in a transition
state; there are carriage
factories and showrooms,
automobile ware rooms, apartment
houses, hotels, vacant lots, and
some of the old buildings,
including several cottages of
the days when this was a country
road. The site at Numbers
1634-1642, on the old Hopper
farm, was occupied by the
American Horse Exchange until
1910, when the Winter Garden
Theatre was erected by the
Shuberts. The Exchange was from
1883 the up-town Tattersall's
where horses of the best breeds,
carriages, and harness were
sold, usually at auction. At the
northeast corner of Fifty-sixth
Street is the modern Tabernacle,
first opened for service in
March, 1905, and the legitimate
successor of the other two which
have stood on Broadway; it is a
very ornate building, the
corner-stone of which was laid
in 1903. At Number 1684, the
Metropolitan Roller Skating Rink
has been in operation since
1906. The building which it
occupies has been an armory of
one of the city batteries, a
bicycle academy, and various
other things during the past
thirty years.
The Old Guard
At the northwest corner of
Forty-ninth Street, the Old
Guard had its armory from 1898
to 1908. This is not a part of
the regular military force of
the State, but it has peculiar
privileges, and is usually
detailed as an escort for any
distinguished person who reviews
parades or processions. From a
social standpoint, it ranks
higher, possibly, than any other
military organization in the
city, and it partakes more
nearly of the nature of a social
club than do the regular
regiments. The vast majority of
the rank and file of the
national guard organizations are
young men, while those in the
Old Guard have passed the
meridian of life, having seen
active and strenuous service
elsewhere. The City Guard was
formed in 1833, and at the same
time a rival organization,
called the Light Guard, was
formed out of the old Blues,
dating from 1762. After the
Civil War, the survivors of the
Two organizations united to form
the Old Guard on April 22, 1868.
The distinctive white uniform
and great bearskin hat always
attract attention, and the
veterans are held very high in
popular estimation.
Columbus Circle
At Fifty-ninth Street is the
entrance to Central Park, and
where Broadway, Eighth Avenue,
and Fifty-ninth Street cross is
an open space called "The
Circle". Its centre is occupied
by a fine column and base called
the Columbus Statue, presented
to the city by the Italian
residents in 1892 in
commemoration of the four
hundredth anniversary of the
discovery of America by their
fellow countryman, whose statue
surmounts the column.
The Boulevard
The Western Boulevard, or
simply the Boulevard, as it was
commonly called, was the work of
the Tweed ring; and the highway
was opened in 1868. The
assessments levied upon the
property owners contiguous to
the old Bloomingdale Road were
more than many of them could
pay, and they either lost their
property or it became heavily
encumbered. Like all the work of
the ring, the construction was a
gigantic steal; but Tweed
certainly showed great foresight
in laying out this fine
thoroughfare, lined with trees
whose price to the taxpayers was
enormous. The new Boulevard
followed the general direction
and bed of the old road, though
it did not follow all its
windings. As most of the farm
lands and estates abutted on the
Bloomingdale Road, we find that
many of them will be found on
both sides of the modern
thoroughfare. The new
thoroughfare was known as the
Boulevard until January first,
1899, when the board of aldermen
changed its name to Broadway
throughout its length to
Kingsbridge.
As the downfall of the ring
occurred shortly after the
opening of the Boulevard, it was
left for many years in an
unpaved state, and was, in
consequence, a mudhole in wet
weather where vehicles
frequently became stalled, and
in dry weather the dust was
terrific. When the Twenty-second
Regiment marched to its new
armory in 1891, one could hardly
see the soldiers for the clouds
of dust.
The first paving of the street
was ordered from Fifty-ninth to
Seventy-ninth streets in 1890;
and all kinds of materials have
been used--macadam, asphalt, and
brick. The paving was done in
sections as the needs of the
rapidly building locality
required, the last being
completed in 1907. When the
section as far as One Hundred
and Sixth Street was finished in
1896, the street became the
favorite route of the wheelmen,
who turned through the last
named street to Riverside Drive
and so on to Grant's Tomb. It is
now a finely paved, asphalt
brick pavement and is a much
patronized route for
automobiles.
The Armory
The armory of the
Twenty-second Regiment of
Engineers of the National Guard
is on the east side of
Broadway;, between Sixty-eighth
and Sixty-ninth streets. The
regiment was organized in April,
1861, at the outbreak of the
Civil War and had its quarters
at Seventh Street and Hall
Place; it occupied its armory in
Fourteenth Street near Sixth
Avenue in 1864. The present
armory was occupied in 1891. The
regiment was mustered into the
service of the national
government during the Spanish
War, and became an engineer
regiment on February 20, 1902. A
new armory, the corner-stone of
which was laid December 19,
1909, is now in course of
construction on Fort Washington
Avenue at One Hundred and
Sixty-eighth Street at a cost of
about a million of dollars; and
the members of the regiment hope
to occupy it in the spring of
1912.
Bicycles and Automobiles
The construction of the elevated
roads in 1880, and the running
of the surface cars made the
section west of Central Park
more easily accessible than in
the days of the stages, and
building operations began.
Previous to 1880 and even for
some time after that date the
vacant lots were occupied by
squatters, whose ram-shackle
structures, goats, and
multitudinous children added
what we may now consider as a
picturesque touch to the scene.
Some of the children of these
squatters have become rich
through the increase in value of
the lots which their fathers had
the foresight, or good luck, to
buy in those early days. About
1890, the bicycle was in its
glory; and for nearly a decade
the smooth asphalt of the
Boulevard attracted the devotees
of the wheel, the favorite ride
being as far as Clarement and
Grant's Tomb.
The annual parades of the
wheelmen were beautiful sights,
especially at night, when
countless lights flickered along
the roadway as the silent
vehicles speeded swiftly along.
Many shops and buildings were
erected to accommodate the
wheelmen and their needs; and
there is no doubt that the
desirability of this locality as
a residence section was thus
brought to the attention of many
thousands and helped in its
development. Now, alas! the
wheel has departed; and where
once bicycle shops abounded, we
find their places taken by many
more shops and garages for the
sale and repair of the
automobile. Where, in the
nineties, the bicyclist had
constant views of open spaces
and truck gardens, now the
autoist, as he dashes madly
along, sees solid blocks of
great hotels and apartment
houses, with private houses only
on the side streets.
Subway Railroad
(Construction)
The subway railroad is directly
responsible for this; and as it
belongs to this period of
Broadway's development
subsequent to 1895, a brief
account of it may be given here.
The idea of an underground
railway was of old date. It was
in 1890 that the first rapid
transit commission was appointed
by Mayor Hugh J. Grant; it
reported in 1891 that the tunnel
franchise should be sold to the
highest bidder, but capitalists
were afraid to back the scheme
on account of its uncertainty
and the vast amount of capital
involved. In 1894, the
legislature created the Rapid
Transit Board, which,
fortunately, was composed of men
of unimpeachable integrity and
enterprise with no interest or
concern in politics, and they
went at the matter in a
business-like way.
The plans for the tunnel,
drawn by the engineer, William
Barclay Parsons, were approved
by Mayor Strong in 1897; and the
congested condition of the
traffic lines due to the influx
of visitors on Grant's Day,
April 27, of that year, showed
the absolute necessity of
immediate relief. The contracts
were let to John B. McDonald on
February 21, 1900, and work was
begun shortly afterwards, four
and one half years being the
time allowed for the completion
of the work and the running of
the trains. The section of the
road under Broadway begins at
Forty-second Street and
continues to One Hundred and
Sixty-eighth Street, rejoining
Broadway again at Two Hundred
and Eighteenth Street and
continuing over it as an
elevated structure to the
terminus at Two Hundred and
Forty-second Street abreast of
Van Cortlandt Park. The road is
four tracks as far as One
Hundred and Third Street and two
tracks beyond.
During the nearly five years
that the underground was
building, Broadway was a sight
to be remembered, as the work
was done from the surface and
the street and the car tracks
had to be supported by temporary
bridges of planks; and it was no
unusual thing for a vehicle to
fall into the excavation. As a
result of this excavation, the
trees planted by the Tweed ring,
which had by this time begun to
beautify the thoroughfare, were
badly injured, and in many cases
destroyed completely. In May,
1910, the central plots of the
street were fenced in, sodded,
and set out with plants and
shrubs. In the Washington
Heights section the cut was so
deep that the work was done
entirely below the surface by
regular subterranean miners
brought from the mining places
of the world, and the surface
was undisturbed.
Subway Railroad (Its opening)
The subway was officially opened
to the public from Brooklyn
Bridge to Broadway, and One
Hundred and Forty-fifth Street
on October 27, 1904; to One
Hundred and Fifty-Seventh
Street, November 12, 1904; to
Two Hundred and Twenty-first
Street, March 12, 1906; to Two
Hundred and Twenty-fifth Street,
January 14, 1907; to Two Hundred
and Thirtieth Street, January
27, 1907; and to Two Hundred and
Forty-second Street, its present
northern terminus at Van
Cortlandt Park, August 1, 1908.
At its lower end, it was opened
to Fulton Street, January 16,
1905; to Wall Street, June 12,
1905; and to the Bowling Green
and the South Ferry, July 10,
1905. In the Washington Heights
section, some of the stations
are so deep that elevators carry
the passengers to and from the
surface.
So immensely popular has the
subway become since its opening
that it is greatly overcrowded,
and other lines and extensions
are projected. There are many
thousands of New Yorkers who see
and know nothing of their city
except in the neighborhood of
their homes and places of
business, between which they
travel on the underground.
Wealthy Merchant Properties
In colonial days, many of the
wealthy merchants had
country-seats near the bank of
the Hudson. Some of these
gentlemen were loyalists during
the Revolution and, in
consequence, lost their property
by confiscation; among the
owners we recognize many Dutch
and Huguenot names. The
principal owners as far north as
Ninety-sixth Street were John H.
Tallman, Bogert, G. Kimberly,
John Gottsberger, John
Hardenbrook, Jacob Harsen, Sarah
McGill, Stephen Jumel, Jacob
Lorillard, Richard Somerindyke,
John C. Vandenheuvel, John
McVickers, Brockholst
Livingston, James Hamilton, and
David M. Clarkson.
There is one name among the
owners of property here that was
still more famous in colonial
days, but which we do not find
after the Revolution--that of
Oliver DeLancey. He was a
loyalist during that struggle
and was made a brigadier,
commanding a brigade of
loyalists and refugees,
recruited principally from the
Tories of New York, Westchester,
and Dutchess Counties, and from
Connecticut, New Jersey, and
Long Island. His house, a fine
colonial mansion, faced the
Bloomingdale Road near
Seventieth Street; and in it De
Lancey extended a generous
hospitality to the best society
of the province.
The Apthorpe House
The Apthorpe House stood until
1892 on the block between
Ninetieth and Ninety-first
Streets and Columbus and
Amsterdam Avenues in the centre
of a farm which originally
consisted of two hundred acres.
It was built about 1765 and was
a fine mansion with columns in
front. The gentleman who built
the house was Charles Ward
Apthorpe, a wealthy lawyer of
New York, who, though a personal
friend of Washington, was a
loyalist of a mild type. In
consequence, he lost his estates
in Massachusetts, but his New
York property was untouched as
he died in the old mansion in
1797.
It came into the possession
of Brockholst Livingston, and
later into that of Colonel
Thorne, who had married Miss
Jauncey, whose family were great
landowners in this vicinity, and
it continued to be the scene of
social events for half a century
longer, when it became a public
house and picnic ground under
the name of Elm, or Wendell
Park. During the Civil War, the
extensive property was used for
encamping and drilling recruits
before sending them to the
front.
The Apthorpe house is also
connected with the greatest name
in American history. After the
fiasco at Kip's Bay and the
escape of Putnam's division on
the fifteenth of September,
1776, Washington took up his
quarters in the mansion.
Preparations were made for
supper, when the approach of the
British was announced and the
Americans made a precipitate
retreat, leaving their meal to
be eaten by Howe and his staff,
who made the house their
headquarters for several days.
The Orangemen Affair
The Protestants from the north
of Ireland, commonly called
Orangemen, held a picnic in Elm
Park on the anniversary of the
battle of the Boyne, July 12,
1870. As they marched up the
Boulevard, then in course of
construction, some of the airs
played by their bands aroused
the ire of the Catholic Irish
laborers upon the street, who
began to stone the procession. A
small-sized riot ensued, in
which shots were exchanged and
three persons were killed and
several wounded, some of whom
died afterward. The Orangemen
announced their intention of
parading in 1871, and the
Catholic Irish threatened to
break up the celebration. The
parade was prohibited by the
chief of police the day before
which it was to occur. Upon this
becoming known, several of the
public business and commercial
bodies held indignation meetings
and asked: "If the Irish
Catholics are permitted to
parade unmolested on St.
Patrick's Day, why have not the
Protestant Irish an equal right
to do the same thing under
police protection?" Governor
Hoffman was telegraphed for; and
after consultation with leading
citizens, revoked the police
order prohibiting the parade and
ordered out the militia to
protect the paraders.
In view of possible disorder,
all of the Orange lodges, with
one exception, gave up the idea
of a parade and sought various
picnic grounds outside the city.
Escorted by five regiments,
Gideon Lodge, with less than one
hundred men, started on the
designated line of march for Elm
Park. The streets were filled
with spectators, and there was
no disturbance until the
procession reached Eighth Avenue
between Twenty-fourth and
Twenty-fifth streets; then a
shot was fired as a storm of
stones and missiles was hurled
at the procession from the
neighboring house tops. Two of
the regiments fired volleys
without authorization, and, as a
result, fifty-four spectators
were killed or mortally wounded,
while many others received
injuries. As is usual in such
cases, among those hurt or
killed were many innocent
lookers-on. Three of the
soldiers of the Ninth Regiment
were killed, and many others
received injuries from stones
and brick-bats. The marks of the
bullets are still discernible
upon some of the houses in
Eighth Avenue. These two affairs
of 1870 and 1871 are known in
the history of the city as the
"Orange Riots."
Blomendaal To Bloomingdale
The Dutch, with fervent
patriotism, having named the
city at the lower end of the
island New Amsterdam, proceeded
to name places in the vicinity
of New Amsterdam after home
places of which they were
reminded in this new land. Thus,
a beautiful village near old
Harlem called Bloemendaal and
famous for its horticultural
nurseries gave its name to this
section not far removed from the
New Harlem on the island of
Manhattan; and it is only a step
from Bloemendaal to
Bloomingdale. Owing to the large
estate of Jacob Harsen between
Sixty-sixth and Seventy-second
streets, it was also called
Harsenville. Harsen's Lane led
from within the present Central
Park from Sixth Avenue, westward
between Seventieth and
Seventy-first streets to
Columbus Avenue, and thence to
the Bloomingdale Road half a
block south of Seventy-second
Street. Harsen's House was at
Seventieth Street and the
Bloomingdale Road. **
It must be remembered that these
streets did not exist, even on
paper, until the acceptance of
Randall's map of 1821 by the
commission of 1807; and that the
actual cutting through of
streets above Fifty-ninth,
except in some few cases, did
not begin until after 1860.
Bloomingdale Reformed Dutch
Church
The Bloomingdale Reformed Dutch
Church at Sixty-eighth Street
and Broadway is the successor of
the original church established
near the same site in 1805. It
probably owed its birth to the
prevalence of yellow fever in
the city and the desire of those
who fled to this locality to
have church services. In 1813,
Andrew Hopper, of whom we have
already spoken, was married here
a second time. Some generous
elder of the church society gave
to it a large plot of ground for
a parsonage, and its increment
in value saved the church from
extinction. When the Boulevard
was opened, the old church
edifice was in its path and had
to be removed; but the immense
value to which the parsonage lot
attained enabled the church
society to erect the present
beautiful structure.
Rutgers Riverside
Presbyterian Church
Rutgers Riverside Presbyterian
Church is at Seventy-third
Street. It was first organized
in 1796 under the name of
Rutgers Presbyterian Church and
had its origin in the desire of
expansion on the part of the New
York Presbytery after the
recovery of the city by the
Americans from the British. A
lot was donated by Henry Rutgers
of the Reformed, or Dutch Church
upon his property at the corner
of Rutgers and Henry Streets;
and a frame edifice was built
and opened on May 13, 1798. By
1841, the congregation had so
increased that a stone church
was built upon the same site;
twenty years later, the
neighborhood had so changed and
the congregation had grown so
small that the property passed
to St. Teresa's Roman Catholic
Church, which still occupies the
same site.
Rutgers formed a union with
the Madison Avenue Church of
that time at the corner of
Madison Avenue and Twenty-ninth
Street, which had been opened
for public worship in 1844. In
1875, a new and larger structure
was erected; but by 1881 the
same conditions of change in
population were met as in Henry
Street, and the church was
closed, to reopen six months
later for a period of three
years during which the church
lost steadily. At the end of
1884, it was determined to close
the historic church and dissolve
the society, but another attempt
to revive it was made in 1886.
At the end of two years, it was
seen that this effort also was
fruitless, and it was determined
to build west of Central Park.
The church on Madison Avenue was
sold to the Masons of the
Ancient Scottish Rite; and the
new chapel at the Boulevard and
Seventy-third Street, under the
name of Rutgers Riverside, was
opened September 23, 1888, to be
followed later by the present
fine edifice, which was opened
January 19, 1890.
Christ Protestant Episcopal
Church
Christ Protestant Episcopal
Church is also an historic
church. It was organized in 1793
and was first placed on a site
on Ann Street, which it vacated
in 1823 to occupy a newly
consecrated edifice in Anthony
Street which had formerly been
occupied by a theatre. The
building in Ann Street was sold
in 1827 to the Roman Catholics,
then poor in wealth and
population, and was long used by
them as a church. The church in
Anthony Street was completely
destroyed by fire, July 30,
1847, but it was rebuilt and
reoccupied until 1854, when the
society moved to West Eighteenth
Street, remaining there until
1859, when a new church was
erected at Fifth Avenue and
Thirty-fifth Street. When this
last edifice was burned in 1891,
the society moved to its present
location on the Boulevard. The
original Ann Street structure
was destroyed by fire in 1834.
Other Churches In The Area
The other churches in this
vicinity south of Ninety-sixth
Street are all of more recent
organization. They are:
Manhattan Congregational at
Seventy-sixth Street, organized
1896; Roman Catholic Church of
the Blessed Sacrament at the
southeast corner of
Seventy-first Street, organized
1887; the First Baptist Church
at the northwest corner of
Seventy-ninth Street, organized
in 1891; and the Evangelical
Lutheran church at the northeast
corner of Ninety-fourth Street,
organized 1897.
Open Space A Park Or Square
Wherever Broadway crosses one of
the avenues of the island, we
find at the crossing, or near
it, an open space of a block or
more to which the name of "
Park," or "square" is given, and
that the cross street is usually
broader than those above or
below it. This is the case at
Fourteenth, Twenty-third,
Thirty-fourth, Forty-second,
Fifty-ninth, Sixty-sixth, and
Seventy-second Streets, where
Broadway crosses University
Place, Sixth, Seventh, Eighth,
Ninth (or Columbus), Tenth (or
Amsterdam) Avenues respectively.
To the space from Seventieth to
Seventy-third Street, at the
last-named crossing, has been
given the name of Sherman Square
in honor of the great General.
In the triangular plot at the
upper end of Sherman Square is a
marble statue of Guiseppe Verdi,
the great Italian composer. On
the base of the pedestal are
several marble figures
representing some of the
principal characters from his
operas. The monument was built
by subscriptions obtained from
Italian residents, principally
through the efforts of one of
the Italian papers of the city,
and was unveiled on October 2,
1906.
Colonial House Once Residence
Of Edgar Allan Poe
As late as 1893, there stood on
a height of rock on the south
side of Eighty-fourth Street
east of the Boulevard, where the
cutting through of the street
had left it, an old colonial
house, once the residence of
Edgar Allan Poe, in which he
wrote "The Raven". Poe's wife
Virginia was in poor health and
the couple came here in 1844 and
boarded with Mrs. Brennan in
order that Mrs. Poe could get
the pure, fresh air. In the
olden time, before the
surrounding land had been
covered with modern dwellings,
the house commanded a
magnificent view both up and
down the Hudson.
A Famous Mansion
Another famous mansion was a
stone house standing at
Seventy-ninth Street, between
Broadway and West End Avenue.
This was built about 1759 by
John C. Vandenheuvel, a Dutch
governor of Demerara, who came
to New York to escape the fever
and liked it so well here that
he bought four hundred acres of
land in this vicinity and built
his country house upon it. The
Vandenheuvel town-house was
opposite the City Hall Park,
between Barclay Street and Park
Place. The property was vacated
during the Revolution, and was
sold by the Vandenheuvel heirs
in 1827 to Harmon Hendricks, who
leased it in 1833 to Burnham at
a yearly rental of six hundred
dollars. Burnham's near
Seventy-fourth Street and the
Bloomingdale Road, was the most
famous road-house in this
section from before 1820 until
the proprietor opened the still
more famous Mansion House in the
old Vandenheuvel dwelling. After
Burnham's occupancy, the
property passed into the
possession of a Frenchman named
Poillon, who sold it in 1878 to
the Astor estate. The old house
stood until the spring of 1905,
when it was demolished to make
room for the enormous apartment
house and hotel called the
Apthorpe, which occupies the
whole block in the middle of
which the old house used to
stand.
The Somerindyke House
The Somerindyke house, at
Seventy-fourth Street and the
Bloomingdale Road, was an
interesting place, because here,
so it has been frequently
stated, Louis Philippe,
afterwards king of the French,
and his brothers taught school
while in exile. Later
authorities proclaim the story a
myth, as the three noblemen
while in this country drew upon
the purse of their friend,
Gouverneur Morris, for their
expenses. When they returned to
France and fortune, they forgot
their generous American friend
until he reminded them of the
debt. Then they repaid, but
treated the loan as a business
transaction entirely. This
aroused the ire of the old
aristocrat, who could be as
sarcastic in his old age as in
his earlier days; and since they
ignored the element of
friendship which had entered
into the loan, he demanded the
interest and entered suit
against them, and his heirs
eventually received the money.
Belnord Apartment House
Occupying the entire block from
Eighty-sixth to Eighty-seventh
Street, and from Broadway to
Amsterdam Avenue, is the
apartment house called the
Belnord. It contains one hundred
and seventy-six apartments, with
from seven to eleven rooms each,
and a corresponding number of
bath-rooms. It is said to be the
largest apartment house in the
world, and contains a population
of upwards of a thousand. It was
opened in 1909.