Union Place Park
As before stated, the Bowery and
Broadway were designed by the
commission of 1807 to meet at
the "tulip tree"; above this was
the Bloomingdale road, into
which the Bowery curved slightly
from its route over that part of
the present Fourth Avenue below
Fourteenth Street.
If the streets planned by the
commission were cut through from
east to west, there would be
formed at this place a number of
irregular blocks of inconvenient
size and shape. To get out of
this dilemma, the commission
laid out at this point a small
park where fresh air might be
obtained when the city blocks
should be built up. This park
they called Union Place, because
here was the union of the two
principal thoroughfares of the
island.
In 1815, by act of the
legislature, it became the
public meeting-place, or
commons, for the people of the
city; but it was many years
before it was used for anything
else than for the shanties of
the squatters who occupied the
site. Like nearly all the public
parks of the city, it had before
1815 been used as a potter's
field. In 1832, the corporation
determined to enlarge and
regulate the place to its
present area, from Fourteenth to
Seventeenth streets and from
Fourth Avenue to the extended
north line of University Place.
It was not until 1845, however,
that with an expenditure of one
hundred and sixteen thousand
dollars, the park was put into
shape and that the elegant
mansions were erected which once
surrounded the park, a few of
which still remain as business
places. Samuel B. Ruggles, one
of the founders of the Bank of
Commerce, was chiefly
instrumental in developing as a
fashionable part of the city
this section as well as Gramercy
Square.
Farms
In 1762, Elias Brevoort sold
twenty-two acres of his farm,
extending from the Bowery
westward between the present
Fourteenth and Sixteenth
streets, to John Smith, from
whose executors the farm passed
in 1788 to Henry Spingler, a
shop-keeper of New York, for
nine hundred and fifty pounds.
Spingler's farmhouse stood
within the limits of Union
Square. Other farms as far as
Twenty-third Street on the west
side belonged to Thomas Burling,
John Cowman, Isaac Clason, Sir
Peter Warren, Isaac Varian, and
Christian Milderberger. On the
east side, were the two farms of
Cornelius Williams and John
Watts. At the corner of the
present Seventeenth Street and
the Bloomingdale Road was a
square acre of ground belonging
to the Manhattan Bank, acquired
so it is supposed, as a sort of
refuge for conducting business
in case of being driven from the
city by the yellow fever.
Other Points Of Interests In
The Section Surrounding Union
Square
A) Spingler House Hotel
The hotel known as the Spingler
House stood for many years on
the west side of the square on
the site now occupied by the
Spingler building.
B) Maison Doree
A fashionable restaurant, on the
south side, near University
Place.
C) Hotel Churchill
On the southeast corner of
Broadway and Fourteenth Street
is the Hotel Churchill, formerly
the Morton House, and originally
the Union Place Hotel,
established in 1850.
D) Tiffany & Co.,
Among the prominent shops which
occupied the west side of the
square was the great jewelry
house of Tiffany & Co., which
moved here from Broadway and
Broome Street in 1870, occupying
a site upon which formerly had
stood the Spingler Institute.
Tiffany remained at the
southwest corner of Fifteenth
Street until 1905, when the
business was moved to Fifth
Avenue and Thirty-seventh
Street, as the highest class of
trade was moving to that avenue.
E) Schirmer, and
Ditson & Co.,
Leading music dealers and
publishers of the city, were
also here for many years before
moving up-town.
F) The Equestrian
Statue of George Washington
On July 4, 1856, the first
statue erected in New York since
that of George III. in 1770, was
unveiled with appropriate honors
in the southeast corner of the
square. It is the equestrian
statue of George Washington,
designed by Henry K. Brown. It
stands near the spot where the
citizens of New York met
Washington on the Bowery Road
when he was entering the city to
take possession upon its
evacuation by the British,
November 25, 1783.
G) The Statue Of
Lafayette In Union Square
At the head of Broadway is the
statue of the gallant Frenchman
Lafayette, who gave not only
money and supplies to the
American army, but his personal
services as well, and with such
marked ability as to deserve
well of the American people. The
statue is by Bartholdi and was
given to the city in 1876 by its
French residents.
Many Businesses Have Moved
From The Vicinity
To show how the retail trade is
departing, there is one great
house of international
reputation, located near
Twentieth Street, which spent
$6000 more in advertising in
December, 1910, than in previous
years and $55,000 less business
in the same month. The assessed
valuation of property in this
neighborhood for taxes has been
decreased in some cases for
1910. The Gorham Company of
silversmiths was at Nineteenth
Street for nearly thirty years,
moving to upper Fifth Avenue in
1906. The great grocery house of
Park & Tilford, which had
occupied the southwest corner of
Twenty-first Street for forty
years, moved to the Brunswick
building on Fifth Avenue in the
fall of 1910.
The last of the old mansions
that once stood in this
neighborhood was one belonging
to Peter Goelet at the northeast
corner of Nineteenth Street; it
stood until June, 1897, amid the
great business houses that
surrounded it. It was a rather
gloomy place with few signs of
occupancy except some peacocks
which strutted proudly around
within the railed garden in
front of the house and attracted
the attention of the passers-by.
Most of the other great houses
on the thoroughfare between
Union and Madison Squares,
Arnold, Constable & Co., Lord &
Taylor, Aitken & Son, Sloan's,
Brooks Brothers, and others are
too well known at present to
call for description.
Miscellaneous Information
For many years the park was
enclosed by an iron railing; but
about twenty years ago, the city
authorities awakened to the fact
that the public parks should be
free at all hours, especially at
night in our hot spells, and the
fence was removed. The fountain
was erected in anticipation of
the admission of Croton water
and played for the first time
upon the day of the great
celebration in 1842. Several
smaller fountains for drinking
places have been erected about
the park.
On the north is a house of
comfort with a platform facing
the open space of Seventeenth
Street from which speakers can
address the crowds upon public
occasions. This has been a
favorite out-door gathering
place upon May-day and Labor day
for the socialistically
inclined; and one can listen
upon such occasions to a variety
of denunciations by wild-eyed
and long-haired foreign
citizens. You may not be able to
understand anything they say
except the one word "Capitalisten"
which is hurled with such
obvious and bitter hatred that
you come to the conclusion that
it cannot mean anything else but
capitalists. At a meeting of
this sort on March 28, 1908, a
bomb was hurled at the police,
but fortunately no one was
killed except the hurler of the
missile.
The Great Meeting In Union
Square
Of a different class from the
socialistic meetings was the
great meeting in Union Square on
the twentieth of April, 1861,
when at three o'clock in the
afternoon, over one hundred
thousand people assembled in
mass convention to take steps to
redress the insult to the flag,
which had been fired upon at
Sumter less than ten days
before. The Meeting was presided
over by John A. Dix with
eighty-seven vice-presidents
from the leading men of the
community; among whose names you
will find only half a dozen,
which, at that time, would have
been called foreign. The list
began with Peter Cooper and
ended with John J. Astor. The
most famous of the orators who
addressed the meeting was
Senator Baker of Oregon, who,
during the Mexican War, had led
a New Meeting gave encouragement
to the Government and showed the
spirit in which the city viewed
the impending conflict.
The mayor of the city at the
time of this meeting was
Fernando Wood, a wily and
disloyal politician, who had
proposed the secession of the
city, together with Staten and
Long Islands, from the State of
New York and the formation of a
new State, to be called "Tri-Insula."
As mayor, he was chosen to
preside at this meeting, and it
was strongly intimated to hi
With this threat in mind, and
doubtless still further reminded
of the necessity of being loyal
by the shrill cry of a small boy
perched in a tree; "Now, Nandy,
mind what you say; you've got to
stick to it this time," he made
a speech in accord with the
loyal sentiments which animated
the great crowd.
The Union League Club
A short time after the meeting
there was formed a club of loyal
and patriotic men, modeled after
a similar one in Philadelphia,
and called the "Union League
Club." Its object was to assist
the government in raising
regiments and funds. It first
occupied a house loaned for the
purpose by Henry G. Marquand at
the corner of Seventeenth Street
and Broadway, later moving to
Madison Avenue and now at Fifth
Avenue and Thirty-ninth Street;
its membership for many years
has been restricted to members
of the Republican party.
Dead man's Curve
When the cable road was built on
Broadway, it was customary for
the cars to take the double
curve from the west side of the
Square into Broadway at full
speed, the company stating that
it was impossible to let go and
grip the cable while on the
curve, and the authorities
believed them. So many accidents
occurred here that the place
became known as "dead man's
curve." At last, the authorities
threatened to do something, and
the car company immediately
found a contrivance for picking
up and letting go the cable as
successfully as on a straight
course.
A Surface Car Line On
Broadway
Thee idea of a surface car
line on Broadway had its
inception as early as 1850, and
a company of thirty was
incorporated for the purpose.
This corporation, of which Jacob
Sharp and John L. O'Sullivan
were the prime movers, secured
from the Common Council in
December, 1852, a franchise "to
lay a double track in Broadway
and Whitehall or State Street
from the South Ferry to
Fifty-seventh Street; and also,
hereafter to continue the same
from time to time along the
Bloomingdale Road to Manhattan
Ville." In addition, the company
was to give free transfers to
omnibus lines at a number of
cross streets and to pay an
almost nominal sum to the city
for the privileges granted. The
motive power was to be horses,
the only known power at that
time for street traction
purposes. In granting the
company the right to extend
their line to the terra
incognita of Harlem, the
aldermen little thought how
promptly the Manhattan Ville
section would be built up and
that their generous grant would
in the near future prove to be
of immense value.
A Court Matter Over Thirty
Years
As Broadway was then the chief
residential street of the best
society of the city, strong
objections were made, and the
company was enjoined from
building the road. The matter
was carried into the courts,
where the fight lasted for over
thirty years. The aldermen and
assistant aldermen who,
notwithstanding the vetoes of
the mayor, granted this and
other franchises without
adequate compensation to the
city, were denominated "The
Forty Thieves," as each board
consisted of twenty members.
William M. Tweed was at this
time an alderman, and Richard B.
Connolly, his coadjutor in the
later infamous Tweed ring, was
already known in political and
municipal affairs as "Slippery
Dick." As a result of failing to
obey an order restraining them
from granting the franchise,
many of the aldermen were
fined and one was imprisoned for
contempt of court. When the
rail-road matter was finally
settled in 1885, most of the
aldermen of 1852 were dead and
not more than half a dozen of
the original incorporators were
alive.
Between The 1852 Franchise
and 1885 Road Construction A
Bitter Fight
Between the granting of the
franchise in 1852 and the
construction of the road in
1885, the fight against it was
so bitter and politics entered
into it so largely that the
contest had its effect upon the
election of both state and city
officials. In 1863, Commodore
Vanderbilt stole a march on
Jacob Sharp by getting the
aldermen to grant him a
franchise for the extension of
the Fourth Avenue surface road
down Broadway from Fourteenth
Street to the Battery. He was
the controlling power in the
Harlem railroad which owned the
Fourth Avenue line, the first
surface car line in the city. In
furtherance of his plan, the
block between Thirteenth and
Fourteenth streets on Broadway
was torn up: but an injunction
stayed the work, and the block
remained in a disgraceful
condition for two years while
the matter was being
adjudicated.
Broadway and Seventh Avenue
Car Line Established in 1864
In 1864, the Broadway and
Seventh Avenue car line was
established, and the cars were
run on Broadway above Union
Square, continuing through
University Place below
Fourteenth Street. Sharp was one
of the directors of this line
and it became the backer of the
Broadway line and the
corporation through which the
financial manipulations of the
Broadway Surface Company, as
Sharp's line was officially
known, were made. The principal
difficulty experienced by the
exploiters of the road was in
getting the consent of property
owners on Broadway below
Fourteenth Street. At last, in
1883, Sharp succeeded in having
passed at Albany a general
railroad act which permitted the
aldermen to offer the franchise
of a street railway for sale or
not, "at their option."
More Conflict Regarding
Surface Road
On August 6, 1884, the aldermen,
with only one dissentient vote,
gave permission to lay tracks on
Broadway; but the mayor promptly
vetoed the resolution. A
taxpayer named Lyddy then
enjoined the board from passing
the resolution over the veto;
but Lyddy was bought off, and at
nine o'clock on the morning of
August thirtieth, the eighteen
aldermen in favor of the
franchise were called secretly
together and repassed the
resolution granting the
franchise. No notice of the
meeting was sent to those
aldermen opposed to the grant,
and the city got little for a
franchise so valuable that two
millions of dollars had been
offered for it. The feeling of
the public in regard to this
flagrant abuse of power is shown
in a cartoon of Harper's Weekly
at the time. Two strangers
inquiring their way are saying
to a New Yorker: "We want
Broadway and Tenth Street." The
reply was: "Broadway has already
been given away; but if you make
haste, you may be able to secure
Tenth Street from the aldermen."
The Act of the board had hardly
become public before injunctions
were at once applied for. The
Supreme Court appointed a
commission to examine into the
matter and to report upon the
case. It was shown in the senate
investigation that some members
of the commission were connected
with the interested parties.
Upon a decision of the Supreme
Court in favor of the Broadway
surface railway, Sharp lost no
time in laying tracks and
securing equipment, buying up
all the stages and horse of the
omnibus lines, many of whose
drivers he later used on the
horse cars. The last bus ran on
Broadway below Fourteenth Street
on June 20, 1885, and the first
public horse-car ran over the
route from Fifty-seventh Street
to the Bowling Green the next
day. The cost of building the
road was about $138,000, but the
company was financed for over
two millions.
The action of the Board of
Aldermen aroused the ire of the
public, and the State Senate
began an investigation. Their
counsel was Roscoe Conkling, and
the leaders of counsel for the
railroad were James C. Carter
and Elihu Root. One of the
striking features of the
investigation was the inability
of Sharp to remember anything
about transactions involving the
drawing of checks amounting to
over half a million dollars,
though his memory was wonderful
in regard to other matters. The
Senate committee found that no
legal authority had ever existed
for the construction of the
Broadway surface road; that the
Broadway Surface Railway Company
was a sham and a scheme shaped
in conjunction with the
directors of the Broadway and
Seventh Avenue Company; that
bribery had been employed and
the city defrauded in the
granting of the franchise, and
that the franchise should be
revoked.
This was followed by the arrest
of Alderman Jachne, one of the
"solid eighteen," on March 18,
1885. Of the twenty-two members
of the Board of Aldermen that
passed the franchise in August,
1884, all but two were found to
be implicated. One of the two,
Hugh J. Grant, later became
mayor of the city. Of the
remaining twenty, two were dead
and three fled at the time
Jaehne's arrest. The others were
indicted and tried for bribery
and suffered various degrees of
punishment from fines to
imprisonment. The arch briber,
Jacob Sharp, suffered
imprisonment. It was shown that
the price paid for votes was as
high as $20,000.
In the thirty-three years during
which the conflict for the
surface road had been carried
on, the character of Broadway
had changed completely. It was
no longer a select residential
thoroughfare, but it had become
the main artery of the city's
trade, and the advent of the
horse-cars was hailed by the
merchants with satisfaction. In
a little more than five years
the question arose of changing
the motive power to cable. The
public was strongly opposed to
it; but other cities had already
introduced the cable, and New
York was obliged to get rid of
the antiquated horse-car, and
the railway company finally won
out. For months, the street was
torn up from end to end and
business was in a demoralized
condition; but the work was at
last done and the first cable
cars were run in June, 1893.
The change from the small,
bumpy, and slow moving horse-car
satisfied the public; and when,
on September 5, 1898, an
accident happened to the power
house at Houston Street and the
cars had to be hauled by horses
from Thirty-fifth Street to the
Bowling Green, their
reappearance was greeted with
derision. Then came the final
change to electric traction.
Overhead trolley wires with
their potentiality of danger in
a great thoroughfare like
Broadway were out of the
question, and the underground
trolley was decided upon. Other
city lines were changed first;
and as they worked successfully,
even with heavy snow on the
ground, the work of changing on
Broadway was begun in September,
1898. It was expected by the
railway people that the change
would be effected by December of
the same year; but it was not
until May26, 1901, that the cars
were running by electric
traction.
This, briefly, is the history of
the Broadway Surface Railway
Company, a history replete with
bribery, corruption, "Boodle"
aldermen, iniquitous
legislatures, and complaisant
courts.
Buck's Horn Tavern
At Twenty-second Street and
Broadway was situated the Buck's
Horn Tavern, which is spoken of
in 1816 as "an old and
well-known tavern." It was
ornamented with the head and
horns of a buck and was set back
short distance from the street
about ten feet higher than the
present grade. It was a favorite
road- house for those who drove
out upon the Bloomingdale Road
(Boston Post-road). Almost
opposite the tavern, the
Abingdon Road (Love Lane)
followed approximately the line
of the present Twenty-first
Street as far west as the
Fitzroy Road (Eighth Avenue).
The drivers of that day used to
come as far as the Buck's Horn,
then turn through the quiet and
shady Love Lane to Chelsea, and
thence by the river road through
Greenwich village back to the
city across the Lispenard
meadows. Three hotels still
stand in this section between
Union Square and Twenty-third
Street; these are the
Continental, at the northeast
corner of Twentieth Street; the
Bancroft, at the corner of
Twenty-first Street, and the
Bartholdi, at the southeast
corner of Twenty-third Street.
Abbey's Park Theatre
Nearly on the site of the old
Buck's Horn Tavern, Abbey's Park
Theatre stood in the seventies
and eighties. The Stock company
was one of the best in New York,
containing several actors who
later joined Daly's company.
Between seasons many well-known
actors appeared; among them,
Mrs. Langtry, who made her
American debut upon this stage.
The house was planned by Dion
Boucicault, but he got into
difficulties and was not its
manager when it opened in 1874.
It came under the management of
Abbey on November 27, 1876, the
actress Lotta being his
financial backer. Among the
plays first given here was "The
Gilded Age" in which John T.
Raymond appeared as the
protagonist, Colonel Mulberry
Sellers. The play was founded on
Mark Twain's story of the same
name. The house was destroyed by
fire, October 30, 1882, several
hours before the evening
performance, and was not
rebuilt.
Flat-Iron Building
The high building at the
junction of Broadway and Fifth
Avenue is one of the curiosities
of New York architecture, and
from its resemblance in shape to
the common household utensil is
popularly called the "Flat-iron
Building." Its site was owned by
Eno of the Second National Bank
, who also owned the Fifth
Avenue Hotel property. The
triangular block was occupied
for many years previous to the
construction of the "Flat-iron"
by a row of two-story buildings
used as shops and offices, and
at the Twenty-second Street
boundary by a tall building
called the Hotel St. Germaine,
the whole pre-senting an
anomalous appearance upon one of
the most beautiful squares in
New York, with the trees and
lawns of Madison Square Park so
prominent in the view. At the
time that the Fuller Company was
constructing the building to its
dizzy height, the streets of the
city were torn up and gouged out
by the workmen on the subway. A
French visitor was moved to
remark upon the idiosyncrasies
of the American people. "I look
up zare," he said, "and zay are
going up to heaven; I look down
zare, and zay are digging down
to ze ozzer place."
Madison Cottage
On the west side of Madison
Square, between Twenty-third and
Twenty-fourth streets, there
stood for about thirty years the
"Madison Cottage", kept by
Corporal Thompson. This house
had formerly been the homestead
of John Horn, who owned the land
where Madison Square is now
located. When the improvements
were made in this vicinity, the
old homestead was moved from the
bed of Fifth Avenue to the site
described above. It was a
favorite road-house on the
Bloomingdale Road, and at
certain times of the year a
cattle fair was held in the
adjoining lot. In 1853, the
Cottage gave way to Franconi's
Hippodrome, a two story, brick
building, where performances of
a superior quality were given.
In 1858, the Hippodrome in turn
gave way to a magnificent marble
hotel, which was for many years
the most notable in New York.
The Fifth Avenue Hotel
This was the Fifth Avenue Hotel,
which was the usual stopping
place of most of the presidents
after 1860 when they visited the
city. When Arthur was President,
he received here the first
Corean embassy that visited the
country. The interpreter was a
naval officer named Foulke, a
classmate of the author. It was
here that in 1884, during the
Blaine-Cleveland campaign, the
Rev. Mr. Burchard made use of
his famous saying in referring
to the Democratic Party as the
party of " Rum, Romanism, and
Rebellion." The alliterative
remark, made in the presence of
Mr. Blaine, went unrebuked at
the time; and as it was repeated
in the public press throughout
the country, it gained such wide
notoriety as to aid materially
in the defeat of Mr. Blaine for
the presidency. The hotel also
sheltered the famous "Amen
Corner", where the politicians,
journalists, and newspaper men
used to gather in social
intercourse, resulting in an
annual dinner somewhat
resembling that of the famous
"Grid-iron Club" of the national
capital. At these dinners gather
the jurists, editors,
journalists, and politicians,
and current affairs are
burlesqued in such a manner as
to make lots of fun, at the same
time conveying a moral. The
hotel was demolished in 1908,
making way for the great office
edifice now occupying the site.
Bloomingdale Road
The Bloomingdale Road was in
colonial times a country road
leading to the hamlet of
Bloomingdale and to the farms
and country residences of
wealthy citizens on the west
side overlooking the Hudson. In
1760, this road was widened to
four rods to about the present
Fortieth Street, and remained so
until the improvements in this
section subsequent to 1845. It
was lined with farmlands
belonging, on the west, to
Matthew Dyckman, Jacob Horn,
Isaac Varian, James Stewart,
Samuel Van Norden, extending on
both sides of the road, Mary
Norton, and L. Norton as far as
Forty-fourth Street. On the east
side, above the arsenal, were
the Samler, William Ogden, and
John Taylor farms, some land
belonging to the corporation and
the farm of Arthur Kind,
extending to Forty-fifth Street.
Many of these farms both above
and below this immediate
section, were the country places
of well-to-do New York merchants
who had their city homes and
shops below Canal Street. There
was no Newport, Lenox, or Bar
Harbor in those early days to
take the people away from the
island; and if there had been
there were no luxurious boats or
Pullmans to whisk them hundreds
of miles in a few hours.
The Hoffman House
On the west side of Broadway, at
Twenty-fifth Street, the Hoffman
House was located in the
eighties and soon became one of
the sights of the city on
account of the paintings
displayed in its barroom , all
of them by the greatest of
American and European artists,
the especial object of interest
being Bouguereau's Nymphs and
Satyr. The Albemarle Hotel
adjoins the Hoffman House on the
Twenty-fourth Street corner; and
at the southeast corner of
Twenty-seventh Street is the
Hotel Victoria, at one time the
home of the late President
Cleveland after his first term
of office.
The Worth Monument
At the junction of Broadway,
Fifth Avenue, and Twenty-fifth
Street is a small, triangular
park, in which is a granite
obelisk, known as the Worth
Monument. If we read the bronze
bands which are around the
stone, we find inscribed
Chippewa and Lundys Lane of the
War of 1812 and nearly every
battle of the Mexican War in
which either Taylor or Scott
fought; for Major-General
William J. Worth was the right
hand man of both these
commanders. Worth was a native
of Hudson and a very
distinguished officer. He died
in Texas in 1849, and his body
was brought here later. After
lying in state in the City Hall,
it was buried with imposing
ceremonies on November 25, 1857,
under this monument erected by
the City of New York. It has
become customary in late years
to erect reviewing stands
abreast of the monument when
parades and processions pass
down Fifth Avenue to the
Washington Arch, or up the
avenue to points above. Here the
reviewing officer, whether
president, governor, mayor, or
other distinguished person,
takes his stand.
The Naval Memorial Arch
This was a beautiful arch and
colonnade erected in 1899 when
Admiral Dewey returned from
Manila. The arch was miscalled
the "Dewey" arch. It was, in
fact, a naval memorial arch; and
upon it and the columns were the
names of John Manley and John
Paul Jones, Decatur, Hull,
Perry, Stockton, Farragut,
Porter, and a host of others who
have carried the flag upon the
seas and added luster to it in
all of the wars in which the
United States has been engaged
from the Revolution to the
present. The whole affair was
made of "staff," and in the
course of several weeks became
so dirty and bedraggled that it
had to be removed. It was
intended to perpetuate the arch
and colonnade in marble, and
subscriptions were started with
this end in view; but for some
reason, perhaps because the
admiral became too prosaic an
individual by getting married,
the scheme fell through. It is a
great pity; for the Farragut
statue opposite the Worth
Monument is the only memorial in
New York which tends to do honor
to that service that has always
distinguished itself in time of
war, and which is immediately
forgotten in time of peace.
Police Precinct Known As
"Tenderloin".
Twenty years ago, this section
between Twenty-third and
Thirty-fourth streets was the
liveliest in the city. Here were
located many of the popular
hotels; and in the adjoining
territory was the police
precinct known as the
"Tenderloin," to be the
commander of which was the
ambition of many police
captains, as after one or two
years of it they were assured of
being able to retire with at
least a competency for their
declining years.
Hotels Of The Area
Besides the hotels mentioned,
the Hoffman and the Albemarle,
there were the Gilsey at
Twenty-ninth Street on the east
side, the Grand at Thirty-first
Street, just above, now called
the New Grand, the Coleman House
on the west side between
Twenty-seventh and Twenty-eighth
streets, the Hotel Martinique at
the north-east corner of
Thirty-second Street, and the
Sturtevant at 1186 Broadway, a
favorite stopping place for
officers of the army and navy.
The last two have disappeared,
the Gilsey is termed the New
Breslin, and the Imperial at
Thirty-first to Thirty-second
streets, the finest hotel of
all, has been erected and
enlarged within less than
fifteen years. Where the Gilsey
House now stands was the field
of the St. George Cricket Club,
which was formed by the
Englishmen who patronized Clark
and Brown's English chop-house
in Maiden Lane; the grounds of
the club are now on Staten
Island. At the southeast corner
of Twenty-sixth Street,
Delmonico's up-town restaurant
was located from 1876 to 1888,
when the Cafe Martin took its
place and succeeded to its
popularity. There are a number
of well-known restaurants and
Rathskellers on this part of the
thoroughfare.
The Varian Tree
One of the last relics of the
olden time to disappear was a
tree on the west side in front
of Number 1151, near
Twenty-sixth Street, which was
the Varian Tree, which had been
at the gateway of the old Varian
farm near the homestead; it
stood until before 1880.
A Few Tid-Bits Regarding
Theatres Of The Area
The San Francisco Minstrels
moved up-town between
Twenty-eighth and Twenty-ninth
streets, on the west side, in
1874, and with Birch, Wambold,
and Backus ran successfully for
several years. J. H. Haverly
secured control on December 1,
1883, and ran his "Mastodon," or
"Megatherian," Minstrels for
some time. He was obliged to go
back to the paleozoic age for an
animal big enough to represent
the size of his show, with eight
end men and the company in
proportion. The house was the
Comedy Theatre under Haverly and
was run as a combination house.
Dockstader had the place for a
while and gave his amusing
monologue Misfits. The house
belongs to one of the Gilsey
family, and it has been through
all sorts of theatrical
vicissitudes down to 1909,
rejoicing then in the name of
the Princess Theatre."Sam" T.
Jack ran it for some time with a
somewhat risky show.
He appeared one morning in the
Gilsey office, after he had
signed the contract, with an old
valise and several bundles tied
up in newspapers, and notified
the clerk he had come to pay his
first six months' rent. The
clerk expected a check; but
instead of producing one, Jack
tumbled his bundles onto the
table and said: "Here it is;
count it and see if it is
right." An examination showed
the bundles to contain a
collection of bills of all
denominations, mixed up in
apparently inextricable
confusion. One of the Gilseys
and the clerk put the bundles
into a cab and drove to the
bank, where, after two hours'
work, assisted by several of the
bank clerks, they succeeded in
sorting out the mixture and
found it correct to the last
dollar.
Two other theatres have
entrances from Broadway: Daly's
old Twenty-eighth Street house,
and Jo Weber's. The first began
as Apollo Hall, and later became
Daly's Fifth Avenue Theatre.
After Daly's removal, it became
Harry Miner's Theatre and was
burned out January 2, 1891; it
is now Keith and Proctor's. The
other theatre on Twenty-ninth
Street was originally Weber and
Field's, where those amusing
comedians gave very funny
burlesques of the passing shows.
After the dissolution of their
partnership, it became Jo
Weber's Theatre.
Lester Wallack's Theatre
Lester Wallack moved into his
up-town theatre at the northeast
corner of Thirtieth Street in
February, 1881, but the building
was not ready for opening until
January 4, 1882. The exterior of
the building has never been
completely finished. Here
Wallack had an excellent stock
company as before; but the house
never became so famous or so
popular as the old Thirteenth
Street theatre perhaps, because
a new generation of
theatre-goers had grown up and
the actor-manager was getting
old. He retired from active
management, and the house opened
as Palmer's Theatre on October
8, 1888, to become and remain
Wallack's once more on December
7, 1896.
Banvard's Museum and Theatre
The oldest theatre in this
neighborhood was originally
Banvard's Museum and Theatre at
1221 Broadway, near Thirtieth
Street. It was the first
building in the city erected
expressly for museum purposes,
and was opened June 17, 1867. It
became Wood's Museum and
Metropolitan Theatre in 1868,
and Wood's Museum and Menagerie
in 1869. Very good plays with
first-class actors were given
under both managers, as I can
personally testify. In 1877, it
became the Broadway Theatre, and
two years later it became Daly's
remaining under the management
of Augustin Daly until his
death. It was the one theatre
where the visitor could find the
perfection of acting,
management, and presentation,
whether the play were a French
or German farce or a
Shakesperian revival. Ada Rehan,
John Drew, Mrs. Gilbert, James
Lewis, George Clarke, and others
were known, admired, and loved
by a generation of
theatre-goers.
The Brighton Theatre
The Brighton theatre at 1239
Broadway opened with a variety
show on August 26, 1878; and
after many changes of names,
became the Bijou Theatre,
December 1, 1883.
The Manhattan (or Eagle)
Theatre
The Manhattan (or Eagle) Theatre
stood on the west side of
Broadway between Thirty-second
and Thirty-third streets. It was
opened with a variety show
October 18, 1875; later, it
became the Standard Theatre,
becoming the Manhattan again
August 30, 1897. It was the
first house in New York to
present Gilbert and Sullivan's
H.M.S. Pinafore which became so
popular that it was played at
over half a dozen theatres at
the same time; that was before
the days of international
copyright. Towards the end of
its career, it was about the
only theatre of prominence the
city outside of the theatrical
trust. At the last it became a
moving-picture house, and was
torn down in 1909 to make way
for Gimbel Brothers' big
department store.
The Herald Square Theatre
At the northwest corner of
Thirty-fifth Street a building
called the Coliseum was opened
with a panorama in 1873 and was
run until the following year,
when it was taken down and
removed to Philadelphia during
the Centennial Exposition.
October 11, 1876, the New York
Aquarium took its place with a
theatre, and later, a circus
attached. The place was very
popular until 1883, when it was
torn down and the New Park
Theatre was erected, opening on
October fifteenth. Harrigan took
possession and opened on August
31, 1885, after the destruction
of his New Theatre Comique. It
was called Harrigan's Theatre
and was successful, but the rent
ate up the profits and Harrigan
was obliged to give it up. It
then became the Herald Square
Theatre on September 17, 1895,
and has retained that name until
the present.
The Knickerbocker
After the destruction of his
Park Theatre at Twenty-second
Street, Henry E. Abbey had no
house that he could call his own
until 1893, when he opened the
theatre at the northeast corner
of Thirty-eighth Street, where
he introduced Irving, Bernhardt,
and other foreign actors of high
rank, opening with the first
named on November 8, 1893. On
September 14, 1897, the house
was opened as the Knickerbocker,
a name that it still retains.
The Casino
The Casino, at the southeast
corner of Thirty-ninth Street,
was opened October 21, 1882,
with "The Queen's Lace
Hankerchief." The building is in
the Moorish style, and has been,
more than any other theatre in
New York, the home of comic
opera. Among its greatest
successes were Erminie and
Florodora, the latter of which
seems to have been unfortunate
for many of its participants, as
several murders and numerous
scandals in which Florodora
girls were concerned filled the
columns of the daily papers and
set the town by the ears for
some time during and after the
run of the play.
The Union Dime Savings Bank
The Union Dime Savings Bank
stood on Thirty-second Street,
facing Greeley Square, from 1876
to February, 1910. From in front
of the bank the old Bloomingdale
stages had their point of
departure before going out of
existence altogether. About
fifty years ago, the property
belonged to Richard F. Carman,
who asked $90,000 for the plot,
but took $87,500, remarking to
his agent with a chuckle of
satisfaction as he closed the
bargain: "I guess that fellow's
stuck." Such was the opinion of
many who considered the price
beyond all reason for property
in the neighborhood of
Thirty-fourth Street; in 1874,
when the savings bank took
title, it paid $275,000, or
about seventy dollars a square
foot for approximately four
thousand square feet. At the
sale in October, 1906, the bank
received about two hundred and
fifty dollars a square foot; and
the purchaser sold to an English
syndicate in June, 1909, at a
price which is stated to have
been in the neighborhood of
three hundred and seventy five
dollars a square foot, a value
for city property only exceeded
so far by the plot at the corner
of Broadway and Wall Street.
This will give some idea of the
increment in land values in this
vicinity within half a century.
Herald Square and Greeley
Square
Broadway crosses Sixth Avenue at
Thirty-fourth Street; and from
Thirty-second to Thirty-fifth,
there is an open space, except
for two triangular parks. The
lower one contains a statue of
Horace Greeley and is called
Greeley Square. The upper space
contains a statue of William E.
Dodge, one of New York's famous
merchants, but since it stands
in front of the Herald Building,
it is called Herald Square. The
crossing here at Thirty-fourth
Street is probably the most
dangerous and the most congested
spot on the whole line of
Broadway at present. Though the
houses on the west side from
Thirty-second to Thirty-fourth
Street, and on the east side
above the latter to Thirty-fifth
Street are actually on the line
of Sixth Avenue, they are
numbered as being on Broadway.
The Hotel McAlpin
There is now in course of
construction on the block
between Thirty-third and
Thirty-fourth streets, on the
east side, the Hotel McAlpin,
which is to be a commercial
hotel twenty-five stories high,
with stores on the ground floor,
one of which at the
Thirty-fourth Street corner has
already been rented at twenty
dollars a square foot, the
highest rent paid in New York.
The hotel is to be the largest
in the city and will cost for
building, furnishings, lease,
etc., over thirteen millions of
dollars..
Thirty Fourth Street-Thirty
Sixth Street Area
When the congregation owning the
Tabernacle sold out their
property in lower Broadway, they
established themselves at the
northeast corner of
Thirty-fourth Street and
remained until March, 1902, when
they moved temporarily to
Mendelssohn Hall in Fortieth
Street near Broadway until such
time as their new Tabernacle was
ready for them. While at
Thirty-fourth Street, the Rev.
Dr. William Taylor continued to
uphold the fame of the church.
The wedge-shaped block between
Thirty-fifth and Thirty-sixth
streets, occupied by the New
York Herald and the Evening
Telegram was previously occupied
by a building the upper floor of
which was the armory of the
Seventy-first Regiment of the
National Guard. The newspapers
introduced an innovation in
exposing to public view the
great presses upon which the
papers are printed and folded
when they took possession,
August 20, 1893; and the windows
overlooking the press-room are
always occupied by curious and
interested spectators.
No section of the city has shown
such remarkable advance as this
portion has in the last decade.
Macy's opened here on November
8, 1902; Saks & Co., a
Washington firm, a year or so
earlier; and at this writing,
the Gimbel Brothers from
Philadelphia have just opened on
the block below another mammoth
store. This region is becoming
the greatest retail section of
the city. This is due to a great
extent to the fact that within
the past five years the
Pennsylvania Railroad has
erected a great station a few
blocks west and has connected
this with New Jersey and Long
Island by means of tunnels under
the city and under the two
rivers.
The Great White Way
Broadway from Thirty-fourth to
Forty-seventh Street has been
for the last few years the
locality where the gay life of
the metropolis has been most
readily seen. Here are
congregated great hotels, famous
restaurants, and theatres; and
the brilliant illumination at
night by the countless electric
lights has caused this section
of the avenue to be called the
"Great White Way"; and no
stranger has seen New York who
has not traversed it.
It is to this part of the town
that the heart of the exiled New
Yorker turns, and it is hither
that the footsteps of visitors
bent on gaiety naturally and
inevitably find their way. The
occupants of stores and theatres
as far down as Twenty-third
Street claim to be a part of it
all, and they were ten years
ago, but they cannot stop the
law of progress up the famous
thoroughfare. From abreast of
the City Hall Park, in the first
half of the nineteenth century,
gay fashion has gradually worked
its way northward to this
present section. Perhaps, at the
end of this century, the "Great
White Way" will be as quiet and
colorless as is now the section
of Broadway below Fourteenth
Street, while the gay populace
of that future time will find
its pleasures in the
neighborhood of Kingsbridge.
This seems to be the law of the
street. When that day comes,
Manhattan Island will have lost
the greater part of its
population and will be devoted
almost entirely to business;
while the enormous mass of the
people will live in the suburbs
of Westchester County, of New
Jersey, and of Long Island,
carried daily to and from their
occupations at rates of speed
now undreamed of, and by means
of transit which exist at
present only in the dreams of
visionaries.
The Rialto Section
A quarter of a century ago, the
south side of Union Square was
the lounging place of many
actors seeking employment at the