The small beginnings of the
"Gay White Way" occurred in the
early eighties of the last
century. In 1881 the energetic
and astute London manager,
D'Oyley Carte, introduced the
electric light in his newly
built Savoy Theatre, the
birthplace of most of the
Gilbert and Sullivan operas of
delectable memory.
This was
said to be the first building
entirely illuminated by
electricity. Rudolph Aronson,
projector and manager of the New
York Casino, recognizing its
pronounced advantages in theatre
lighting, installed it in his
pretty home of light opera on
Broadway and Thirty-ninth
Street, which opened the
following year.
It is
difficult in this age, when it
has become a commonplace, to
conceive the charm of the new
illuminant. From indoor lighting
the incandescent lamp made its
way to outdoor uses, and the old
wind-blown gas jet gradually
found its place usurped by the
trim and saucy electric bulb,
and flickered to its end. Street
signs and entrances to public
places became gay with this
Promethean gleam, which not wind
nor rain might quench, until
finally it reached the roofs of
the houses bearing the legends
of trade. So much for the
genesis of our modern
pyrotechnic highway.
The heart
of the region now known as the
"Gay White Way," in the early
days spoken of, was tot he
average playgoer terra
incognita. Long Acre Square, as
it was then designated, was a
monotonous open space, bordered
by rows of drab apartment houses
and dingy dwellings, of which
latter there are still one or
two tenacious survivors. Its
most conspicuous buildings were
the hotel, still standing, on
the northeast corner of
Forty-third Street, and the 12th
Regiment armory, on the site of
which Oscar Hammerstein erected
his trail-blazing palace of
amusements, "Olympia," now the
New York and Criterion Theatres.
Northward of the square the huge
factory of the famous Brewster
carriages introduced the
wayfarer to a region chiefly
devoted to equine matters. The
sound of the blacksmiths' hammer
mingled with the tinkle of the
horse-car bell. Stables abounded
and here and there a red flag
indicated a horse auction.
Florid men, wearing white stocks
and horseshoe pins, stood about
discussing the merits of equine
bargains, for in those days my
lady drove tot he play behind a
pair of spanking high-steppers,
and horse-sense ruled. By night
this district, now ablaze, was
as dark as Egypt, save for the
dim lights of an occasional
livery-stable, a corner saloon,
or a city street lamp.
The northern outposts of the
drama were marked by the Casino
and Metropolitan Opera. True,
there existed on the site of the
present Broadway Theatre a
hybrid institution known as
Cosmopolitan Hall, which
occasionally sheltered ephemeral
companies, besides fulfilling
its original functions of
skating rink and exhibition
hall, but its career was short
and inauspicious. Playhouses
were sporadic and the dozen
first-class theatres of New York
were scattered over a larger
area than are their five-fold
increased numbers of today. From
Union Square northward they
straggled at irregular
intervals, chiefly along
Broadway, although there were
one or two notable houses, such
as the Madison Square and the
Lyceum, in the gloom of
contiguous neighborhoods.
Broadway frontage was not then
the precious possession it is
today.
Thirty-fourth Street, with its
junction of traffic lines, was
the focus of the play going
world. Here were grouped a
number of famous bars and
restaurants, notably Trainor's
and Parker's in the shadow of
the L Station. Here the
bedizened way of Sixth Avenue
mingled with her less garish
sisters of Broadway. Here began
the upper reaches of the
"Tenderloin", that goal of the
ambitious precinct commander,
which acquired its sobriquet
when Captain Williams, of
Japanese building-lot fame,
declared on his transference to
its command that he had eaten
"chuck" steak long enough and
would now enjoy some tenderloin.
Broadway from this point north
divided two neighborhoods of
marked difference. To the east
were Fifth and Sixth Avenues,
between which were the serried
ranks of brownstone fronts in
what was known as the "silk
stocking" district. Sixth Avenue
did service to this section in
the way of caterers' shops,
confectioners, grocers,
druggists, dressmakers and
sundry other genteel purveyors
to the well bestowed. Fifth
Avenue was then innocent of
shops. Broadway from
Thirty-fourth to Forty-second
Streets was a succession of
small retail establishments
interrupted by chop-houses,
restaurants and hotels of a
sporting character. The Rossmore
and St. Cloud Hotels on opposite
sides of Broadway at
Forty-second Street marked the
end of the world to the sport,
the tipster and the chorus-lady
of fin de siecle Manhattan.
West of Broadway was Seventh
Avenue, with its congeries of
"old clo's," Cobblers' shops and
the squalid barracks of "Cullud
help"; while farther westward
spread a miscellaneous array of
theatrical boarding-houses,
non-descript dwellings and
"French" flats of dubious
tenants. Seventh Avenue was
musical, summer times, with the
cry of the hot-corn man, and the
Pullman whisk-broom artist or
the race-horse rubber might
often have been seen discussing
the succulent kernels on the
street corners.
Broadway, of summer nights, was
a very pleasant promenade for
those whom business or pleasure
kept or brought in town. The
beaches were not then so easily
accessible as to-day, and so its
broad pavements were thronged
with light-garbed strollers in
quest of mild excitement. Most
of the theatres closed during
the heated term, only
performances of a light musical
character usually holding the
boards. The Casino with its
picturesque roof-garden,
bordered with varicolored
lights, its Hungarian-gipsy
band, its little round tables at
which were dispensed archaic
beverages, frappe, to its gay
patrons, was the most prominent
of these summer evening resorts.
Its roof-garden was the first of
its kind to open in New York,
and for years it had no
competitor until the Madison
Square Garden and later the
American Theatre at Eighth
Avenue and Forty-second Street
arose in the air.
Some of the minor playhouses
along Broadway suffered
appalling vicissitudes. A tiny
theatre now obliterated in the
building still standing on the
southwest corner of Broadway and
Twenty-ninth Street had as many
changes of name as a modern
divorcee. Its gamut included
"The San Francisco Minstrels,"
"Comedy Theatre,"
"Dockstader's," "Herrman's,"
"The New Gaiety," "Savoy,"
"Theatre Comique," and "Sam
Jack's." One lessee, with a grim
sense of humor, styled it the
"Jonah" Theatre, and found his
choice of names justified in a
few disastrous weeks, and when
its doors finally closed it was
with the aristocratic
appellation. "The Princess,"
blazoned on them.
The Herald Square Theatre at
Thirty-fifth Street in its
earlier evolution was another of
these polyonymous playhouses. It
was built as an aquarium and
began its career with
astonishing success, later
became a combination of
playhouse and menagerie, and
sheltered numberless attractions
which ceased attracting in from
one night to one week. Some of
these productions were not
without merit, but were so
precariously financed as to be
unable to weather untoward
circumstances. The financial
support that the playhouse
enjoys today was then unknown.
The vagabond taint still clung
to the mummer; the educational
aspect of the stage was still
below the horizon; the "uplift"
had not yet begun. The Herald
Square, then known as the "Park
Theatre," for a few seasons
sheltered Edward Harrigan (than
whom no play-maker has ever
delineated local life with
greater realism, until his
removal to his own theatre on
Thirty-fifth Street, now the
Garrick.
The primrose path of Broadway
occasionally led down byways
into less frequented quarters,
in which a number of houses of
good cheer were situated.
"Burns" and "Jack's," the latter
still flourishing in diminuendo,
both on Sixth Avenue above
Forty-second Street, will be
remembered as the scenes of the
revels of the college roisterers
on the nights of the great
football matches, and there,
also, our modern New Year orgies
were fostered in their
incipiency. Among other resorts
of similar character might be
mentioned "Sam Martins" on
Broadway near Forty-first
Street, which on the decease of
its genial proprietor discovered
what was regarded as the largest
collection of autographs for
unpaid supper bills in the
records of the "Rialto."
Extremes met on this same
"Rialto," or if not, they faced
each other, for on the east side
of Broadway, opposite the
Metropolitan Opera, there
throve, for a number of years,
in a one-story tumble-down
shanty a German bar which
served, in addition to its
liberal potations of lager,
sundry substantial viands at
what would be, today, regarded
as mythical prices. Here many
impecunious player-folk found
succor from famine and drought
tot he eventual enrichment of
"Meinherr" and his "Frau," who
presided over the mysteries of
pig's-knuckles and sauerkraut.
Few of the old landmarks remain.
Broadway below Forty-second
Street retains not a vestige of
its old sporting and theatrical
character. Great commercial
structures have replaced the
haunts of the actor, the
pugilist and the turfman. Gone
is the Thespian who "knocked 'em
cold" in Council Bluffs. Gone
the wire-tapper and the tout
with the "good thing" in the
third race. Gone the card sharp,
the billiard sharp, and divers
others whose exceeding sharpness
was no match for the scythe of
time. Swarms of industrial
workers now tread the stones
they trod, and the roar of "Big
Business" has drowned the last
faint echoes of an earlier and
more festive day.