The Jewish quarter of
Williamsburgh, situated in that
portion of the Eastern District
of Brooklyn north of Broadway
and just below Graham avenue,
has some picturesque features
that strongly distinguish it
from any other portion of the
city. Here the various types of
that wonderful race which has
left such a powerful impress on
history may be seen in their
plenitude.
Students of Physiognomy,
whose olfactories are not
super-delicate, would be well
repaid by a traverse of this
region. It is well known that
feminine beauty is to be met
with in abundance among the
Jews. Some of the girls that
preside over these squalid
booths of trade are really
beautiful. Black-eyed, dark
haired, rich complexioned and
with that beauty of form that
this race fairly revels in, they
make one wonder at the destiny
that dooms these radiant
creatures to such a pitifully
sordid fate. Of course, it is
not to be understood that these
lustrous Hebes are the rule.
They are the exception, but
still they are by no means rare.
The children that litter the
streets are bright eyed,
healthy, and, of course,
thoroughly dirty. They swarm
literally, and live, move and
have their being on the
pavement. Some of these soiled
cherubs of the Ghetto are
remarkable for their physical
beauty. They look as if they
might have flown out of one of
Raphael's or Murillo's pictures.
One shudders to think of the
fate that awaits these glowing
children with the rich blood of
generations of the desert in
their veins.
It is impossible to walk through
this characteristic colony
without being strongly impressed
with the types of old men. There
are patriarchs, white bearded
and venerable, with the profile
of an Ahasuerus that looked as
if they stepped out of the
mystic antique scriptures. some
of them look positively august
and have prominent places in the
synagogue and enjoy the respect
of the people. Some of the
patriarchs are deeply learned in
the lore of Israel: they know
the Talmud and the sacred books
and are the living repositories
of the faith and traditions of
their people. On the feast days
of Israel, which are kept in all
their pomp in the Jewish
quarter, they fill an exalted
role.
Trade in the multiform
varieties of Hebrew ingenuity
fairly infects all the region.
Walk along Seigel or Moore
streets, and you will have an
invaluable object less on of the
genius of this people for barter
and sale. Probably there are few
outsiders who would care to
adventure for such merchandise,
for the surroundings are not
attractive to those to whom
neatness and cleanliness are
indispensable. But for those who
like to study human nature, a
trip through the Jewish quarter
is well worth while. The wares
are spread out in rich confusion
in the store windows and on the
stands that usurp most of the
sidewalk. All sorts of food and
the various commodities of the
household, at prices which are
the despair of all the gentile
merchants in the neighboring
regions, are to be found the
whole length of a street.
One
is puzzled to find out where the
buyers come from in a society
where all seem to be merchants.
There is a perfect riot of
competition. The socialism that
is supposed to have such a
strong foothold among this part
of the community is certainly
not seen to advantage in the
trade. Here individualism, stern
and uncompromising, rules the
coast. The hungry sordidity of
acquisition is seen in its full
flower. It is not merely the
vivid interest in the things of
business and barter that
inspires these merchants. It is
a kind of rage of ambition to
excel in their jousts of cunning
that makes them contend
heroically over the issue of a
cent. One understands how the
Jew has dominated the markets of
the world. There are Rothschilds
in miniature that one sees
haggling in those sordid
streets. As to the merchandise
it seems to be limitless, both
in quantity and variety. Monday
morning is the time when the
Ghetto is to be seen at its
best. The first day of the
week's business is inaugurated
with an eagerness that has in it
all the elements of joy. If
anyone doubts that business is a
positive pleasure tot he Jew not
an onercus duty as it generally
is to the gentile, let him go
through the Jewish quarter on
some bright Monday morning.
About midway of the thoroughfare
is a public market whose
unrivaled variety and confusion
of wares make everything else in
the neighborhood seem orderly by
comparison. This market has no
parallel in the two cities. The
elite of the buyers of the
Ghetto make their purchases
here. A multitude of women armed
with baskets seems to shop
continually in this place. On
the faces of the purchasers
there is evident that delight
only seen in the countenance of
the typical shopper in the
department stores. One hears a
perfect Babel of voices in
Hebrew, German, Russian,
occasionally broken English. It
was Friday when the reporter
made his way into this savory
mart, and society was assembled
for the purpose of securing
provender for the Sabbath. A
card bearing the satirical
legend, "One price only," was
hung high and dry over the heads
of the purchasers. The hawkish
gentleman who presided over the
savory mysteries seemed to pay
as little attention to this
announcement as the marketers,
for there seemed to be an
endless series of cheapening
duels going forward.
In the
heart of the Ghetto stands a
synagogue, absolutely unique
among the many institutions of
the kind that abound in New
York. It is a temple in which
are celebrated in their purity,
the ancient rites of Judaism. No
innovation has been allowed to
creep in, as is the case in so
many more pretentious
synagogues. Here the old worship
and traditions, handed down for
ages, are maintained with a
reverence that never fails to
edify a stranger who witnesses
the august ceremonies.
In Moore street, midway of the
distance from Broadway to Graham
avenue, rises another synagogue.
It has been erected within the
last few years, and while not as
large of as imposing as some of
the wealthier synagogues of New
York and Brooklyn, it is still
rather costly in construction,
and out of all seeming
proportion to the neighborhood
which has all the earmarks of
poverty. This fortress of
Jehovah, rising abruptly in the
midst of the riot and confusion
of commerce, strikes the
stranger with some force. It is
about the last thing that one
would expect. It is the very
triumph of the anomalous. The
synagogue is built of brick and
stone and is quite ornate in
appearance. On worship days it
is always filled to
overcrowding, and the reverence
displayed on these occasions is
an edifying thing for
Christians.
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