I am going to talk about a new
York Sunday (a Sabbath day ,not
a soda water confection).
When I was a little girl, in
1867-1868, the upper part of
Manhattan island, on the west or
Hudson River side and north of
59th Street, was suburban.
There was one line of street
cars that penetrated "through
the quiet" at stated intervals
(but never on schedule time) to
the jingling of not unmusical
harness bells. The route was up
Eighth Avenue, and Eighth Avenue
skirted the west side of Central
park, as it does today, and
Central Park was in 1867 a
comparatively new city
acquisition.
There was also
once in every two or three hours
(I think it was from six in the
morning until six at night) a
stage line that followed the
windings of the Bloomingdale
Road (now Broadway) through
Bloomingdale, Manhattanville,
Carmansville and on to
Washington Heights.
It might be interesting to
mention en passant that the
people who used these street
cars and stages were mostly
known to one another, not
perhaps personally, but as
belonging to the same
country-side neighborhood.
As an instance of this fact, I
recall a tall, dark, sallow man,
who always wore a cloak and who
was a tea merchant. He was a
brother of Susan B. Anthony and,
as Miss Anthony was then
considered to be a young woman
of startlingly progressive
ideas, we children gazed upon
her brother with interest.
Then along the Bloomingdale Road
there lived a colony of actors,
and Mr. Joseph Jefferson's
little daughter, who afterward
married the English novelist,
Fairjohn, was almost like going
to the theatre to ride beside in
the car or the stage.
The stages only ran on week
days, for an old observance of
the Sabbath was still held in
half remembrance in New York. Of
course, there had been a great
change since 1830, for in his
book, "The Last Days of
Knickerbocker Life in New York,"
my father says: "When the church
bells had ceased tolling and
services were about to commence,
havy iron chains were drawn
tightly across
the streets containing the
"Houses of Worship" and only the
doctor's gig, on an errand of
mercy, was allowed to pass
through the barred roadway"; and
again he says: "Sometimes on a
lovely summer afternoon a brave
sinner would get out his
carriage and pair for a drive
from town into the country,
knowing that for this lapse, and
an indefinite period thereafter,
he would be a subject for
intercession at family evening
prayers."
To go back tot he stage route in
1867, by the time 60th Street
was reached the Bloomingdale
Road and the contiguouis
neighborhood became country
stretches of land, filled with
lovely homes, many of them like
Marshall Hall at 92nd Street,
having been the country seats of
representative New York families
since pre-Revolutionary times.
Will you go back with me to a
June Sunday morning in 1867?
When the bell in the tower on
Mt. Morris Hill in Harlem rang
out a quarter to nine, we
children, arrayed in our best
"bibs and tuckers," started
church ward. Oh! that old tower
bell, let it tell us the story
of its life: "I was cast in
Holland over the sea in Sixteen
Hundred and Thirty-three.
Centuries have passed over me
since first I was rocked in the
tall belfry of St. Nicholas'
Church by the Zuyder Zee." We
must not let the garrulous old
bell take too much of our time
and so we must pass by the
incidents of many years until we
come to the portion of the
narrative which says:
"On Whitehall Street, there once
did stand a quaint Dutch house
that did command much praise for
its garden that seems to be a
regular hit of old Hollandrie,
with its clipped box border and
cedar tree and its tulips galore
of gaudy hues, but the humble
bees did always choose the
Clover Inns for their gossip and
news.
"A parsonage wedding it was,
that set the Burghers thinking
that they must get a proper
place to worship and pray. It
was upon this bridal day that
the Dominie's daughter, young
and fair, pink of cheek and
sunny of hair, said tot he
guests assembled there:
"Friends, I now before you
stand, and ask a gift from every
hand. Come, build you a church
in this new land.' So the
Burghers opened their pouches to
pay for a church named St.
Nicholas on that day."
The legend goes on to tell how,
when the news reached Holland,
it was decided to send as a gift
to the new church in the new
world, the bell from the mother
church of St. Nicholas by the
Zuyder Zee.
Then the bell goes on to say:
"So they sent me from Holland to
toll the knell of souls that had
departed well, to wake the
sleepers at break of day, to
sound the curfew, to call to the
fray, but most to sing out for
one and all: "To worship!! to
worship come! Heed my call!"
More years rolled away and the
little cluster of houses along
the Battery's Stockade had grown
from a village and spread out
into a thriving town, and away
up northward a colony of
adventurous Holland folk had
formed a new settlement and
called it by a beloved home
name_Harlem.
It was then that this bell was
taken down from the steeple of
the abandoned St. Nicholas'
Church on the Bay and placed in
the tower that had been built on
the top of the highest hill on
Manhattan Island, and there for
many life generations it had
hung, doing faithful duty
through spring time and autumn,
through summer and winter. It
kept the village clock in
accord. It woke the sleepers
(far and near) at dawn. It sent
the good folk to bed on the
stroke of nine (the hour
prescribed for each thrifty
house frau to sprinkle ashes
over the red hearth logs, and
then to blow out the candle).
The bell warned strolling
sweethearts to speed home (ere
the
"watch," solemnly twirling his
huge wooden rattle, should
fulfill his bounden duty and
drive them before him). It
commanded mein Host of the
Tavern to send into the night
the village Rip Van Winkles and
it bade the one general
shopkeeper to put up the
shutters. When the tower clock
tolled nine, the grand dame
stopped the whirring of her
wheel and all was still, save
mayhap the voice of some mother
singing a wakeful child to
sleep:
"Trip a trop a traunches,
De varken in de braunches,
De conjes in de claver
De pardens in de harver,
De enjes in de vater plass,
So gute mein klina joris vass;"
and this old bed-time lullaby
was sung to generations of New
York Children.
In his autobiography, our
Theodore Roosevelt says: "My
grandmother taught me the only
Dutch I ever knew, a baby song,
of which the first line ran: 'Trippe
Troppa tronches.' I always
remembered it and when I was in
East Africa, it proved a bond of
union between me and the Boer
settlers, not a few of whom knew
it, although at first they
always had difficulty in
understanding my pronunciation,
at which I do not wonder. It was
interesting to meet these men,
whose ancestors had gone to the
Capoe about the time that mine
went to America (two centuries
and a half previously) and to
find that the descendants of
these two streams of emigrants
still crooned to their children
the same nursery song."
This was one of my nursery
songs, and the translation that
I, as a little child, gave to my
mind, I think was about as
follows:
"Rock a bye my baby,
And into dreamland go.
The birdies on the branches
Have gone to sleep I Know.
The calf amid the clover
Has fallen fast asleep.
The coaltie in the barn yard
Is wrapped in slumber deep,
And even the little fishes
Are dreaming peacefully
In their houses in the water
That no body can see.
So bye to precious baby, My own
dear little boy,
Your mother's precious darling,
Your father's greatest joy."
It must be realized, after
all this detailed explanation,
that the old bell up in the Mt.
Morris tower, even if its story
was but a legend, had a claim to
our reverence and was to us
children no "Tinkling Symbol."
All the way to church, from
mild springtime to Indian summer
days, we passed along a winding
road, holding on either side
homes with gardens about them,
and the white wooden fence
palings were wide enough apart
to afford opportunity for the
reaching through and touching
with gentle hands the petals of
the great fragrant roses, the
honey suckle cups and the
innumerable other fragrant
flowers that hedged in each
little domain from the
outer world.
When the weather was
particularly fair and balmy, we
took a cross cut through our own
and our neighbors' orchards and
fields, and so came upon the old
battlefield of Harlem Heights,
flanking the valley, in which
nestled the village of
Manhattanville (now west 125th
Street).
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