We left Boston at half-past
two, by what is called the
Boston and New York Express
line, an arrangement between
four railways for running
certain trains rapidly over
their roads direct from Boston
to New York. In taking this
route, we pass forty-four miles
westward over the Boston and
Worcester railway, to the town
of Worcester; thence fifty-six
miles, still westward, over a
portion of the Western railway
of Massachusetts to Springfield,
on the Connecticut river. From
Springfield, the direction
changes to south for sixty-two
miles, by the Hartford and
Newhaven railway, till we reach
Newhaven, on the north shore of
Long Island Sound; and the
remaining seventy-four miles is
by the New York and Newhaven
railway, along the coast till
New York is reached. The whole
distance is two hundred and
thirty-six miles, which was
accomplished in nine hours, and
the fare was $5, or £1 sterling,
a little over one penny per
mile. We became acquainted on
this journey with some
arrangements which afterwards
were made very familiar, and add
much to the convenience of
traveling in America. Thus, on
arriving at the station of
departure, tickets, with a
number and our destination, were
attached to each piece of
luggage, and a duplicate number
given to us. The baggage was
then put into a van; and the
traveler gives himself no more
trouble about it. As the end of
the journey is approached, a
duly authorized baggage-agent
comes into the cars and receives
your check ticket, for which he
gives his receipt. You tell him
your destination, and he sees
your traps safely delivered; so
on arrival, you have no trouble
in looking after your baggage,
but are free to betake yourself
at once to your abode, and soon
after you get there your trunks
follow you.
The route from
Boston to Springfield is through
a very rough, wild country,
hilly and barren, and very
stony. The railway, throughout
nearly its whole distance, winds
along the sides of the hills by
means of heavy cuttings in the
granite and trap-rocks,
interspersed with embankments
and long bridges. We saw little,
cultivation. The woods were new
and interesting--hemlock pines,
and an underwood of sumac, with
its bunches of red fruit. There
is not much forest on the
immediate line of the road, and
no finely developed wood, the
trees being tall and taper, from
growing close together. There
were many small towns and
villages on the route, and many
small lakes interspersed among
the rocky hills. The afternoon
was such a fresh, clear, frosty
day as is hardly known in
England; and this, with the
constant succession of new
objects claiming attention, gave
to this, our first journey in
America, an interest and
excitement beyond what the
country passed through would
have of itself inspired. At
Springfield the broad waters of
the Connecticut river are
spanned by a long bridge, from
which we anticipated having a
fine view, a hope doomed on this
occasion, and very often
afterwards, to disappointment;
for this bridge, as well as most
others in America, is roofed and
encased in wooden walls. Usually
these bridges are formed of
wood; and the roofing and
covering in is considered by the
majority of engineers a
protection against the weather.
Others, with whom I conversed on
the subject, hold equally strong
views on the other side, and
think that timber well painted
stands better exposed. One thing
is very certain, these covered
bridges are very ugly features
in the landscape, and sources of
continual annoyance to the
tourist, who, just as he is
straining to catch a glance up
or down some pretty stream, or
over some lake-like river, finds
himself whirled through a musty,
close-smelling, dusty box; and
ere he has recovered his
equanimity, on issuing from it,
the picturesque spot he wished
to gaze upon is far behind.
The train stopped twenty minutes
at Springfield for an early
supper. Bodily refreshment is
never lost sight of in the
arrangements of American
traveling. Almost immediately
after leaving, night fell, with
little or no twilight, but with
a fine sunset. We were running
along the eastern bank of the
Connecticut river, which at
Springfield is of considerable
breadth. The opposite bank is
wooded. Beyond, the hills rise,
but not to any great height, and
they also are clothed with wood.
Behind the indefinite outline of
the leafless trees, was the glow
of a sun-setting, lighting up
all the sky with a rich saffron,
and tinting the clouds with a
deep red.
The scenery becomes very
interesting when the shores of
the Sound are reached, but long
before then it was quite dark.
The seats in the cars of this
line are the least disagreeable
I met with in America; the backs
are sufficiently high to form an
easy rest for the head, and the
footboard adjusts itself to give
your legs repose; and the result
of all this, especially after
supper, and in the dark, which
is only partially dispelled by
the carriage-lamps, is, that
most people fall asleep. So the
last part of the journey was
quiet enough.
In the outskirts of New York,
the locomotives leave us. The
rails are laid in the middle of
Fourth Avenue, and Bowery to
Canal Street, and locomotives
are not permitted to pass
through these. So at an outer
station the train was broken up,
and each car drawn into town by
horses with bells on their
harness. Those who knew the
city, got down in the street at
the point nearest their
destination. We, who did not
know the localities, were
carried on to the station in
Canal Street, and found
afterwards that we had passed
the door of the hotel at which
we ultimately put up, and had
gone, I suppose, two miles
further than we need have done.
Our baggage having gone on, we
were unencumbered, and preferred
walking. A few steps brought us
into Broadway. But can this be
Broadway? we asked each other.
It was a street of ordinary
width, and rather mean-looking
houses, and did not at all come
up to my ideas of what the great
street of New York should have
been, as I had pictured it to
myself from some of Willis's
descriptions. There was the
name, however, on the corner, so
there could be no mistake.
Before we got housed for the
night, we altered our opinion of
Broadway, and continued to alter
it day by day afterwards. The St
Nicholas hotel, said to
accommodate 1000 people, was
full, and it had the appearance
of it, as we walked up the
marble-paved hall, thronged with
crowds of people, and lumbered
with piles of baggage. Rooms we
could not have. They would "put
us in" with somebody. This we
declined; and walked off to the
Metropolitan, another large
hotel. Here, however, we fared
no better, for this house was
full too. We then made for the
Clarendon, a house "up form." To
reach it, we passed along the
upper part of Broadway, and
through Union Square, and that
walk effectually removed the
impression of insignificance
which our first sight of
Broadway had left. The upper
part of the street is lined with
trees, between the pavement and
the roadway. It is broad, with
fine houses. Before reaching
Union Square, it makes a slight
bend, and in the angle stands
Grace Church, a very beautiful
ecclesiastical structure. The
parsonage house is beside the
church, a little back from the
street, Gothic, as is the
church, and they are connected
by a cloister. The whole
scene--the deserted and now
quiet street, the calm-looking
church and parsonage, as seen by
moonlight in this dear
atmosphere, was rendered more
striking by its occurring in the
middle of the busiest street of
busy New York.
It was past midnight before we
got fairly settled at the
Clarendon; still, late as it
was, we met with a friend who
had just been making a round of
the hotels to see if we had
come, and found us at last in
the one where he is staying. So
even our late arrival was not
without a hearty welcome, a
foretaste of what awaited us at
all times, and everywhere,
throughout the States.