Wednesday, March 7.It is
impossible to describe the
interest with which one draws up
the window blind on the first
morning after a late arrival in
a new place. Long before I began
to think of dressing, I had been
staring out on the sea of roofs
which spread out below the
window of the loftiest floor of
our hotel, wondering what spire
this was and what dome was that.
Though I then enjoyed intensely
the novelty of a new city, I
shall say very little of New
York, both because it has been
so often described, and because
during my stay my time was so
occupied by business, that I had
only scanty opportunities of
noting matters of general
interest. The Clarendon is in
Fourth Avenue, the continuation
of Broadway. In the newer part
of New York, the streets running
north and south are called
avenues, and are numbered first,
second, and third, &c.,
beginning from the east. The
city occupies a long narrow slip
of land Manhattan Island between
Long Island Sound on the
Atlantic side, called East
river, and the Hudson or North
river, so that the longitudinal
streets are few. The streets,
crossing at right angles, are
numbered 1st street, 2d street,
up to 350th street, on the maps,
but they are not built so far.
In the older part of the town,
the streets are designated by
names, not numbers, and there
they are irregular enough.
Broadway, from Union Square to
the water at the Battery, is
about two miles and a half long.
The Battery is a semi-circular
open space, on the extreme point
of Manhattan Island, and looking
out of the bay. Trees grow
there, and there are walks. Time
was when the houses round were
sought after by the elite, and
when the walks of the Battery
were crowded with the youth and
beauty of the city. But the
fashionable days of the Battery
are numbered. Its tall dwellings
are turned into huge warehouses
or "stores," and its walks are
all but deserted. As we stood
looking out on the beautiful bay
and towards the New Jersey
shore, the Baltic passed, bound
for Liverpool. The vessels of
the Collins' line, from having
no bowsprit and no figure-head,
look at a little distance
disproportionately short, and
consequently clumsy, but they
are in reality of a handsome
build.
The course of this day's
peregrinations took me through
Wall Street, the Lombard Street
of New York. The locale of the
chief banking-houses, I
anticipated seeing a quiet set
of offices. Instead of this, it
is one of the dirtiest and most
bustling streets in New York.
From the custom of business
firms having large signboards,
the fronts of the houses are
disfigured with those ugly shop
looking announcements. The
buildings are of the most
incongruous character. Here, a
fine massive granite Exchange;
there, nearly opposite, a marble
reproduction of the classical
Greek temple accommodates the
Custom-house. Gray granite,
white marble, and red sandstone,
check the color as well as the
character of the architecture,
while noisy groups occupy the
side-walks, or excited
speculators jostle you rudely as
you pass. There are a few idle
loungers, but the majority are
in a hurry. Trinity, the finest
church in New York, stands on
the opposite side of Broadway,
facing Wall Street. It is but a
few steps from the spot where
the lust for gold is the
reigning passion to the
stillness of its dimly lighted
aisles; and keen sarcasms have
been uttered on what has been
called the incongruous
proximity.
A little way up Broadway is the
Park. It is a large square,
filled with trees. In the centre
stands the City hall, a handsome
building of marble, but the
trees are planted so thickly all
around, that in spring and
summer they quite hide the
buildings. On the opposite side
of Broadway, facing the Park is
the Astor house. The front
towards the street is of dressed
granite, and the effect is
imposing. Some of the warehouses
in Broadway are built of marble.
Most prominent of these is
Stewart's Generally, however,
the houses are irregular, and
confusedly huddled together, a
fine house and a hovel beside
each other.
Thursday, March 8. Much amused
this morning at the
breakfast-table with a specimen
of Young America. A little boy
of six or seven came in alone,
and sat gravely down, ordered,
with the greatest
self-possession, beef-steaks and
potatoes, and awaited their
coming with the utmost dignity.
We saw this repeated often
elsewhere. There are no
children, in our sense of the
term, in America only little men
and women. They seem born with
all the responsibility of
citizenship, and wear it with
great gravity. The merest boy
will give his opinion upon the
subject of conversation among
his seniors; and he expects to
be listened to, and is. The
habit gives self-possession, and
a fluency and ease of
expression, but leads to an
undue sense of self-importance
among the young.
At the Clarendon, the tables are
waited by girls. They are
dressed in uniform frocks,
either pink or blue, with short
white frocks over, and they look
excessively smart. They wear
rings, and walk about with great
dignity and impressments a great
deal too much for your comfort,
for they don't hurry themselves
though one-half your food is
cooling and spoiling, while they
are not particularly active in
getting the remainder. Indeed,
we used to think they were
engaged in some private business
of their own in the kitchen,
while ostensibly looking after
our breakfasts. They took time
enough before they brought them
to do a "smart bit" of
flirtation with the cooks. Some
of them who are good-looking
seem to know it right well, and
stand in attitudes often very
graceful and pretty. One threw a
corn-cake at another the other
morning, so there is a good deal
of the free-and-easy with them.
I made a little escapade this
forenoon, to Taylor's, to eat
ices. The ice-saloons of New
York are one of its features.
Taylor's "Store" is a restaurant
on a gigantic scale. In the
centre of the saloon, a flight
of steps leads clown to the
basement, in which is another
large apartment fitted up with
tables for dinners and suppers.
The hall above, with its marble
floor, white and gilded walls,
lit by a range of ten windows,
has a light and elegant
appearance, and can accommodate
a great many guests. Thomson's
is a rival establishment, on an
equal scale of magnificence. I
counted seventy-six tables in
one room, and there was another
up-stairs. To one or other of
these for we never could make up
our mind which was best, and
patronized them about equally we
were almost daily visitors in
the forenoon during our stay in
New York.
The luxury of eating ice, even
in winter, is not appreciated in
the humid climate of England.
I visited Putnam's
book-establishment. But the
largest book-shop, and certainly
the finest I have seen anywhere
(except one in Cincinnati), is
Appleton's. It is in Broadway.
The building was erected first
for a library, but bought by Mr
Appleton. The firm occupies the
street floor, and their shop is
a very fine hall, lined with
books. They are very extensive
publishers and importers; but
though I got De Tocqueville's
work on America, I could not
find Mackay's here or elsewhere.
Appleton's was a most tempting
lounge. We could see on the
tables almost all the recent
books published in England, and
at prices which would have been
irresistible, had it not been
the impossibility of openly
bringing them home.
In the evening, we visited some
American friends whom we had
known in London. They, like many
other of the New York merchants,
had their own house two hours
off by railway, and merely
boarded in town in winter. This
is a very prevalent custom. The
Clarendon is full of families
spending the winter in this way
in New York. To our English
notions of home comfort, the
hotel life of many American
families appears very
disagreeable and dissipating.
Later still, about ten, a friend
called upon us. He told us that
from seven till nine is the
proper time for gentlemen to
make calls in New York, and that
it is quite customary to go in
your walking-dress, unless you
know that there is likely to be
a reception where you are going,
in which case you put on
evening-dress. This seems a
sensible sort of plan for a
business community. It would not
suit so well in England, where
our families like to have their
evenings at home free from
constant interruption, and to
secure which, custom has fixed
the period of calls previous to
sun-down. I seldom observed
books or work in the
drawing-rooms in New York, even
in private houses. These rooms
are not in general use, but kept
for show. Work is done in the
basement or bed-rooms. Houses
have usually two front doors one
admitting to the basement floor,
embracing what are called the
family rooms, where the ladies
sit and work; the other door is
reached by a flight of steps,
and leads into the "parlours" or
drawing-rooms, which are only
used to receive visitors. There
is great want of comfort in all
this. There are, of course, many
who have a better appreciation
of the value of a good house,
and take the use of it, who
leave the basement to the
servants, and enjoy daily their
suites of drawing, sitting,
library, and dining-rooms. In
such houses, you find the
concomitant marks of educated
taste books, pictures, not for
show, but use. I remember with
pleasure more than one such true
"home."
At the publishing-office of the
newspapers, there are boards on
which the telegraph of the
steamer, and other important
news, is placarded. On one of
these, today, I saw the
announcement, "Bill Poole died
at five o'clock this morning."
On inquiry, I learned that Bill
Poole was a pugilist in the
American interest; and having
incurred the enmity of some
fellow-ruffians on the Irish
side, they set upon him in a
drinking-house, and stabbed and
shot him, whereof he died. On
the faith of this, he has been
raised to the rank of a martyr
for his country. Of him, more
anon.
Friday, March 9. Disliking the
carelessness and slowness of the
Clarendon, we removed to-day to
the St Nicholas. Everything here
is on a most extended scale.
There is always a crowd of
people in the hall; and in the
corridors and lobbies up-stairs,
well-dressed ladies and
gentlemen are ever walking to
and fro. There are two
dining-halls and two tea-rooms.
We dined to-day in one of the
smaller halls, with about 170
others. The large hall was
nearly full also. There were
crowds of waiters, Irishmen, and
they are very expert and
attentive. An idea of the dinner
may be gathered from the fact,
that we had our choice of two
soups, two kinds Of fish, ten
boiled dishes, nine roast
dishes, six relishes, seventeen
entrées, three cold dishes, five
varieties of game, thirteen
varieties of vegetables, seven
kinds of pastry, and seven
fruits, with ice-cream and
coffee. The wines numbered eight
brands of Madeira, seventeen of
sherry, eighteen of champagne,
six of port, four of Burgundy,
twenty of hock, sixteen of
claret, six sauternes, nine
varieties of brandy, three
liqueurs, and Scotch ale, India
paleale, and London porter, the
latter three at eighteen pence a
pint each. The price of one hock
was $10 or £2 per bottle. The
favorite wine was champagne, a
native variety of which, called
catawba, is very good.
One connects with New York the
idea of Barnum's Museum, and I
went this evening to see it. It
is at the corner of the Park,
and Broadway, opposite the
Astor-house. There is a very
extensive collection of "things"
a live boa-constrictor,
twenty-five feet long, and a
live giraffe; a great many
horrible looking portraits; wax
figures, which give the natives
most erroneous ideas of
Wellington, Nelson, Napoleon,
and the host of other notables
they pretend to represent;
coins, antiquities, curiosities,
real and manufactured, the
veritable axe (there are at
least sixteen other veritable
axes) that killed Captain Cook,
specimens in natural history,
&c. &c. But the chief attraction
in this museum, as in the Boston
one, seemed to be scenic
representations. To-night, it
was Mrs. Stowe's "Uncle Tom's
Cabin." There was a heavy hit at
England, in the shape of a
reference to our manufacturing
population, who were represented
as being kept by the upper
classes in a state of
involuntary ignorance and
depression. This is put into St
Clair's mouth in an apocryphal
conversation with a Vermonter on
the Mississippi steamer, and he
is made to use it as an argument
in favor of slavery, to show
that the "domestic institution"
is practically not worse than
the condition of the lower
classes in Britain. This, of
course, is a sophism, and no
argument; for if it were true as
to fact, still two blacks do not
make one white." It seemed,
however, to accord with a
somewhat anti-British feeling in
the audience (one of the "baser
sort"), for they applauded
vehemently.