Monday, March 12.-The
newspapers, this morning, are
full of accounts of Bill Poole's
funeral, and articles on its
political bearing. It appears
that, of late years, emigrants
from various nations, instead of
mixing and becoming amalgamated
with the great mass of
Americans, have been banding
together for political purposes;
and as they speedily acquire the
rights of citizenship, they use
these rights favorably for their
old, and unfavorably for their
new, country. It is to oppose
this foreign feeling that the
Know-nothings contend; and Bill
Poole, the representative
champion of American Rowdyism,
having met his death at the
hands of the Irish brigade, his
public funeral yesterday was
intended as a great
demonstration in favor of the
American principle. Some idea of
the extent of the procession may
be formed from the statement,
that it took forty minutes to
pass the St Nicholas hotel. Most
men of sense were sadly grieved
at this display of honor done to
a wretched bully, buried with a
publicity and a pomp which
America has never accorded to
any of her heroes.
Wet and snowy all day. New York
streets are the perfection of
discomfort in such weather.
There is no attempt to clean
them. The snow, shoveled off the
foot-walks, accumulates in the
street. In some of the side
streets, its surface was several
feet higher than the paths. The
constant traffic on Broadway cut
it up and prevented it
accumulating there to such an
extent, but the slush from the
melting snow made it almost
impossible to cross the street
dry-shod. In violent contrast to
the out-of-door cold and
discomfort are the heated rooms.
The transition from the one to
the other must be very trying
for the health.
We dined at the St Nicholas.
Every dinner there is a source
of fresh wonder and interest. In
the evening, we went to the
Academy of Music to hear Madame
Maretzek in "Lucia di
Lammermuir." It is a very
beautiful house, painted from
roof to floor with the universal
white zinc paint, and gilded.
The seats have iron frames, and
are roomy and comfortable. There
was a good audience, but we were
not much impressed with the
assemblage of beauty. The
performance was fair. It was
over by the early hour of
half-past ten, and we sat for
half an hour after supper in one
of the drawing-rooms, planning
our future route, watching the
coming and going in the rooms
and corridors, and marveling
very much at hotel-life in
America.
Tuesday, March 13. To-day,
notwithstanding that it snowed
and hailed, and so made walking
very disagreeable, we strolled
round by the East river wharves.
These are busy spots. Piers run
out into the river, and vessels
lie alongside them, as well as
along the shore. Every spot is
made available. We saw many fine
vessels and clipper ships. One
needs to come down to the river
quays to see the greatness of
New York.
We went out to make calls from
eight to ten. Apart from
railways, on which Americans are
always ready to speak, the war
and slavery are our chief
topics. We had some discussion
on this last subject to-night.
Without upholding slavery, one
friend believes the slaves are
happier in their present
condition than they would be if
they were free. The United
States will not tolerate a black
republic as a neighbor; and as
there is a strong belief that
whites and blacks will not live
together as citizens, the only
way to preserve the country from
a civil war, and probably to
avoid the ultimate extermination
of the blacks, is to keep them
as they are. This gentleman also
put the question thus: The WORLD
cannot do without cotton. Cotton
cannot be raised without
slave-labor. Therefore, it is a
less evil and a less misery that
the blacks, who are accustomed
to nothing else, should be
slaves, than that the world
should starve for want of cotton
garments. Probably both my
friend's major and minor
propositions are incorrect.
Perhaps the world could do
without cotton, and perhaps
cotton could be raised without
slave-labor; but whether or no,
that does not alter the broad
principle, that all men are
equal in God's sight, and that
freedom, by right, belongs to
the black as well as to the
white. Every one tells us that
when we go to the south, we
shall see the blacks so
contented and happy that we
shall alter our opinions of
slavery altogether.
Wednesday, March 14. One of many
new acquaintances made to-day,
invited us to his house this
evening, and handed a card
inscribed:
At HOME
Wednesday Evenings during March
From 8 till 11.
00 E. 00th St.
This is a most excellent plan,
to confine the reception to
stated nights and stated hours.
Donning the proper costume, we
got into a carriage, and about
half-past nine reached "00 E. 00
St." The servant who admitted us
pronounced the words, "Second
storey, back room," which we
were at a loss to comprehend at
first; but presuming we were to
go there, we went, and found it
was a parlor where we might
deposit our cloaks and hats, the
ladies finding similar
accommodation in "second storey,
front room." Having once more
descended, we were met at the
door of the reception-room by
our friend, and presented to the
hostess. Having paid our
respects to her, we passed on.
The rooms were three in number
en suite, and they were full. In
the furthest were refreshments.
By far the majority of guests
were ladies, and some of them
were very pretty, and all well
dressed. Our friend said there
was one very clever lady there,
to whom he must introduce us,
and presently we were in the
midst of a lively conversation
with the versatile and agreeable
Miss Lynch. She, in turn,
introduced us to others, with
whom this casual acquaintance
ripened into a valued
friendship.
Our new friends know Miss
Warner, the Elizabeth Wetheral
of "Queechy" and "The Wide, Wide
World" fame. As any particulars
of favorite authors are welcome,
may I not mention that Miss
Warner is not young? She is tall
and thin, and very
peculiar-looking very good,
which you can see in her face.
They have known adversity.
"Dollars and Cents," "My
Brother's Keeper," are by a
younger sister.
The room is thinning, for there
is a wedding to-night, to which
a number of the guests are
going. It is customary, it
seems, to marry in the evening,
at six or eight o'clock, and
then to receive half the night
after. We could not find out if
the bride and bridegroom staid
out the reception.
We were glad to have had this
opportunity of seeing something
of New York fashionable life.
There were no books or drawings
in the rooms that I could see,
with the exception of one large
portfolio on a stand, which I
did not get an opportunity of
examining. The chief amusement
was looking at and talking to
people. A gentleman played
seemingly very well upon the
piano, but the hum of voices
drowned the music; which want of
appreciation of his endeavors
must have been the reverse of
gratifying to the performer.
Thursday, March 15. Raining hard
all morning and most of the day,
so that it was very unpleasant
walking about. Inquiring about
the products of the Southern
States, I find them to be pretty
much these: Maryland, chiefly
tobacco; Virginia, the same;
Kentucky, tobacco, grain,
horses, and stock; Tennessee,
hemp and tobacco, and a little
cotton; North Carolina, rice,
turpentine; South Carolina, rice
and cotton; Georgia, cotton;
Alabama, cotton; Mississippi,
cotton; Florida, sugar and a
little cotton; Louisiana, sugar
and cotton; Arkansas, cotton;
Texas, sugar and cotton.
At dinner, in Fifth Avenue,
to-day, the war, the Emperor's
death, music, American artists,
spiritualism, formed subjects
for lively and sustained
conversation. Our host had
resided long in the East, and he
had "been in Spain and Italy."
Our hostess, too, had visited
the continent of Europe and
England. It was no wonder the
hours flew fast.
Friday, March 16. The exhibition
of the American Academy of Fine
Arts is in a temporary gallery
nearly opposite our hotel. We
saw it under the disadvantage of
bad light, nevertheless were
much pleased with the
tout-ensemble. Although told
that landscape is the forte of
American artists, there is in
this exhibition, as in our own,
a great preponderance of
portraits, few of which,
however, struck me as fine. Of
figure pieces or historical
subjects there are few. Three
landscapes by Church
particularly pleased us. Two of
them belonged to friends of
ours, and we had afterwards
opportunities of seeing them
again, when restored to their
places on the private walls.
They were all of tropical
scenes. One called "La
Magdalena" represented a broad
piece of river, with the rich
tangled vegetation of the
tropics hanging over its banks;
hills of peculiar long straight
mound-like outline occupied the
middle distance, while lofty
peaked mountains shut in the
back-ground. The color-rich
tropical hues, full of sun, and
heat, and light; the smooth dark
water in the fore-ground broken
up by the ridgy back of a
crocodile just appearing above
the surface. The other two
subjects are similar. The
scenery represents the character
of that of central America.
There are a few more good
landscapes, some exhibiting the
glories of the far-famed Indian
summer.
Exploring up and down the North
river, or Hudson, we found the
scene bustling and interesting
in the extreme. All down the
shore on this river, as on the
East river or Sound, piers area
run out into the water, by the
sides of which lie steamers for
all ports on and up the Hudson.
They might be counted, I
suppose, by hundreds. They bring
hay, corn, flour, and all sorts
of country produce. Down on the
river side the stir and bustle
is much greater than it is up in
the town. The wholesale grocery
and provision stores are
situated in this locality, and
seem to do an immense business.
It is when one sees those parts
of a town that a correct idea is
obtained of the extent and
variety of its sources of
wealth.
The scene on the river is very
exciting. There are steamers
arriving from and departing for
Jersey city every two or three
minutes. To-day the atmosphere
was clear, and we saw across to
the other side without
interruption. There are houses
on the New Jersey shore, down at
the water side, but the ground
rises immediately, and forms a
sort of cliff or bluff, which is
covered with wood. Along the
edge of this high ground, and
overlooking the water, are some
pretty houses. Far up the river,
the high hills known as the
Palisades seem like a curtain
drawn across the landscape. They
are broken by a narrow gorge,
through which the waters of the
river find their way from "the
Highlands of the Hudson."
At these quays, horse-power is
employed to load and unload the
boats. A triangle is erected,
and ropes passed over a pulley
at the top, and another at the
bottom, and a horse harnessed to
one end. When the bales are
fastened to the other end, the
horse walks off, and the weight
is speedily raised. This seems
to be a rapid and effective mode
of getting on with the
unloading, where there are no
steam or hydraulic cranes.
Went to Wood, Tomlinson, & Co.'s
to see some American-built
carriages and light wagons. The
latter are remarkably handsome
vehicles. A four-wheeled one to
carry two, worth $175, or £35,
was so light that I could lift
it with ease, and push it along
with one hand. The wheels are
made of hickory, which is a
heavy wood, but so tough that
they can be made very light;
about one-fourth, if not less
than that, of our English
wheels.
In the room in which we dined
to-day I counted upwards of
forty waiters. There would
probably be as many in the other
dining-room, besides those in
the tea-room. The crowds of
visitors who arrive and depart
every day is perfectly
astounding. It soon sickens one,
this sort of life.
Saturday, March 17.-The barber's
shop is an indispensable adjunct
to every American hotel. Indeed,
the delight the natives seem to
take in being in the barber's
hands, appears to be a
characteristic of our
transatlantic brethren. I
determined to indulge in the
whole process in all its luxury,
and resigned myself into the
hands of one of the assistants
in "Phalon's Hair-dressing
Saloon." Some twenty persons can
be attended to here at once, and
the room is fitted up in the
most gorgeous style. The floor
is a mosaic of black and white
marble. The walls are lined with
mirrors, the divisions of the
glass and frame being gilded.
The apparatus is of silver. The
chairs are most luxurious great
arm-chairs, with a rest for the
head and another for the feet,
at an angle, the ease of which
is perfect. Placed in one of
these chairs, I went through the
pleasing process of
hair-cutting, and was then
transferred to a seat opposite a
fountain, edged round with
porcelain basins. Then, from a
bottle, the operator poured upon
my head some stuff which was
more cooling than odorous. This
he worked up into a great
lather, and then directed on my
pate a jet first of hot water
and next of cold, the contrast
of which tingled to my very
toes. Having dried my hair with
numerous towels, he returned me
to my first most easy seat, and
finished me up with grease,
scent, and pale rum, concluding
the luxurious operation with a
demand for half a dollar. Many a
time after, when we arrived
wearied and begrimed with dust
and smoke from a long journey,
did a hot-bath and the barber
refit us, and put us in
condition to make more use of
our time, than but for their aid
an exhausted physique would have
permitted.
It is St Patrick's day, and an
Irish procession was expected.
Lest there should be an emeute,
the National Guard was out. Some
soldiers of the 7th and 12th
regiments were in the hall of St
Nicholas, and we saw them in
small parties at the corners of
most of the streets. Their
uniform is a small peaked glazed
cap, and a long light-blue
greatcoat; what was under we
could not see. Each had a
bayonet, but they did not seem
to have guns. There has, I
believe, been no procession, at
least we have heard nothing of
it. The weather has been
unpropitious. It snowed during
the night, and this morning
there were from four to six
inches of snow on the ground. It
has rained all day, and the
slush and water is ankle-deep.
Such streets!
The corridor of the St Nicholas
is a magnificent lounge, and
to-night it is cool, which is
rare and refreshing, for usually
the halls and rooms are heated
to a high temperature by steam.
The drawing-room doors open into
this corridor, and as usually
they are not closed, it is very
amusing to watch the groups
within, as well as those one
meets in the promenade.