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The Vanderbilt ball has agitated New York society
more than any social event that has occurred here in
many years. Since the announcement that it would
take place, which was made about a week before the
beginning of Lent, scarcely anything else has been
talked about. It has been on every tongue and a
fixed idea in every head. It has disturbed the sleep
and occupied the waking hours of social butterflies,
both male and female, for over six weeks, and has
even, perhaps, interfered to some extent with that
rigid observance of Lenten devotions which the
Church exacts. Amid the rush and excitement of
business men have found their minds haunted by
uncontrollable thoughts as to whether they should
appear as Robert Le Diable, Cardinal Richelleu, Otho
the barbarian, or the Count of Monte Cristo, while
the ladies have been driven to the verge of
distraction in the effort to settle the comparative
advantages of ancient, medieval, and modern
costumes, or the relative superiority, from an
effective point of view, of such characters and
symbolic representations as a Princess de Croy,
Rachel, Marie Stuart, Marie Antoinette, the Four
Seasons, Night, Morning, Innocence, and the Electric
Light. Invitations have, of course, been in great
demand, and in all about 1,200 were issued.
As Lent drew to a close, everybody having decided
what he or she was going to wear, the attention of
the select few turned from the question of costumes
to the settlement of the details of the ball itself
and the practicing of the parts assigned to them in
the various fancy quadrilles decided on to make the
most conspicuous features of the entertainment. The
drilling in these quadrilles have been going on
assiduously in Mrs. William Astor's and other
private residences for more than a week, while
prospective guests not so favored as to be able to
witness these preliminary entertainments have had to
content themselves with recounting such items of
information as could be extracted from the
initiated. As early as 7 o'clock last evening,
although the ball was not to begin until 11,
gentlemen returning from the hair-dressers' with
profusely powdered heads were to be seen alighting
from coupes along Fifth-avenue, and hurrying up the
steps of their residences to complete their toilets.
About the same time the passage up the avenue of an
express wagon containing the horses for the
hobby-horse quadrille attracted a great deal of
attention. By 8 o'clock a large crowd of inquisitive
loungers was collected in Fifth-avenue and
Fifty-second-street watching Mr. Vanderbilt's
brilliantly illuminated residence and a group of
workmen putting up the awning before the entrance.
Inside, long before the ball commenced, the house
was in a blaze of light, which shown upon profuse
decorations of flowers. These, which were by
Klunder, were at once novel and imposing. They were
confined chiefly to the second floor, although
throughout the hall and parlors on the first floor,
were distributed vases and gilded baskets filled
with natural roses of extraordinary size, such as
the dark crimson Jacqueminot, the deep pink Glorie
de Paris, the pale pink Baroness de Rothschild and
Adolphe de Rothschild, the King of Morocco; the
Dutchess of Kent and the new and beautiful Marie
Louise Vassey, but a delightful surprise greeted the
guests upon the second floor, as they reached the
head of the grand stairway. Grouped around the
clustered columns which ornament either side of the
stately hall were tall palms overtopping a dense
mass of ferns and ornamental grasses, while
suspended between the capitals of the columns were
strings of variegated Japanese lanterns. Entered
through this hall is the gymnasium, a spacious
apartment, where supper was served on numerous small
tables. But it had not the appearance of an
apartment last night; it was like a garden in a
tropical forest. The walls were nowhere to be seen,
but in their places an impenetrable thicket of fern
above fern and palm above palm, while from the
branches of the palms hung a profusion of lovely
orchids, displaying a rich variety of color and an
almost endless variation of fantastic forms. In the
centre of the room was a gigantic palm, upon whose
umbrageous head rested a thick cluster of that
beautiful Cuban vine, vougen villa, which trailed
from the dome in the centre of the ceiling.
To make the resemblance to a garden more complete,
two beautiful fountains played in opposite corners
of the apartment. The doors of the apartment, thrown
back against the walls, were completely covered with
roses and lilies of the valley.
The scene outside the brilliantly lighted mansion,
as the guests began to arrive, was novel and
interesting. Early in the evening a squad of Police
officers arrived to keep the expected crowd of
sightseers in order and to direct the movements of
drivers and cabmen. Before 10 o'clock men and women
were wandering about the streets outside of the
house and glancing at the windows, or peering under
the double canopies which led up to the door. They
took up positions on the steps of the houses
opposite or stood on the adjacent corners waiting
for the carriages to arrive, and then all who could
obtain room on the sidewalks crowded at the outsides
of the canopies and gazed curiously and enviously at
the gorgeously costumed gentlemen and ladies whom
the ushers assisted to alight. Carriages containing
the more youthful and impatient of the maskers drove
past the mansion before 10:30 o'clock, the occupant
peering surreptitiously under the curtain to see if
others were arriving as he rolled by.
Carriages drove slowly by while the ladies and
gentlemen in them, who were not in costume, gazed
out of the windows and at the crowds about the
house, indicating that curiosity was not confined to
the humble walks of life entirely. At 11 o'clock the
maskers began to arrive in numbers, and the eager
lookers-on in the street were able to catch glimpses
through the windows of flashing sword hilts, gay
costumes, beautiful flowers, and excited faces.
Handsome women and dignified men were assisted from
the carriage in their fanciful costumes, over which
were thrown shawls, Ulster's and light wraps. Pretty
and excited girls and young men who made desperate
efforts to appear blasé, were seen to descend and
run up the steps into the brilliantly lighted hall.
Club men who looked bored arrived singly and in
pairs and quartets, in hired cabs, and whole
families drove up in elegant equipages with liveried
coachmen and footmen. A great many ladies were
accompanied by their maids, who were not allowed to
leave the carriages, whereat there was some
grumbling. Gentlemen's valets were treated in the
same manner, and the ushers insisted that these
orders were imperative. AT 11:30 o'clock the throng
of carriages before the mansion and waiting at the
corners was so great that the utmost efforts of the
Police were necessary to keep the line in order, and
many gentlemen left their carriages in adjacent
streets and walked up to the canopy which was the
entrance to the fairyland. Most of the gentlemen
gave orders to their coachmen to call for them at 3
o'clock. Others made hour as lasted as 4, and some
of the more seasoned and wiser party-goers ordered
their carriages as early as 1 and 2 o'clock. The
guests had all arrived, save a few stragglers, at
midnight, and the crowd began to disperse. A few
still remained to wander about in the vicinity of
the house, or to gaze into the area windows or up to
the more brilliant plate-glass in the stories above.
At 1 the Police were the sole occupants of the
street before the house, with the exception of an
occasional wondering belated pedestrian.
The guests on arriving found themselves in a
grand hall about 65 feet long, 16 feet in height,
and 20 feet in width. Under foot was a floor of
polished and luminous Echallion stone, and above
them a ceiling richly paneled in oak. Over a high
wainscoting of Caen stone, richly carved, are
antique Italian tapestries, beautifully worked by
hand. Out of this hall to the right rises the grand
stairway, which is not only the finest piece of work
of its kind in this country, but one of the finest
in the world. The stairway occupies a space 30 feet
square, the whole structure of the stairway being of
the finest caen stone, carved with wonderful
delicacy and vigor. It climbs by ample easy stages
to a height of 50 feet, ending in a pendentive dome.
Another stairway, also in Caen stone, leading from
the second to the third story, is seen through a
rampant arch, with an effect which recalls the
unique and glorious stairway of the Chateau of
Chambord. In the gymnasium, on the third floor, a
most beautiful apartment, 50 feet in length by 35 in
width, the members of the six organized quadrilles
of the evening gradually assembled before 11
o'clock. Lots were drawn Saturday last by the ladies
in charge of those quadrilles to decide the order in
which they should be danced, it being previously
agreed that the ball should be opened by the
"Hobby-horse Quadrille," a fantastic set, under the
leadership of Mrs. S.S. Howland and Mr. James V.
Parker, to which by common consent the privilege was
assigned of filling the scene for five minutes and
no more.
The first place among the more picturesque
quadrilles was drawn by the "Mother Goose
Quadrille," under the leadership of Mrs. Lawrence
Perkins. At a little after 11 o'clock, to the
strains of Gilmore's Band, the six quadrilles,
comprising in all nearly a hundred ladies and
gentlemen, were formed in order in the gymnasium and
began to move in a glittering processional
pageant down the grand stairway and through the
hall.
Winding through the metley crowd of princes, monks,
cavaliers, highlanders, queens, kings, dairy-maids,
bull-fighters, knights, brigands, and nobles, the
procession passed down the grand stairway and
through the ball into a noble room on the front of
the house in the style of Francois Premier, 25 feet
in width by 40 in length, wainscoted richly and
heavily in carved French walnut and hung in dark red
plush. Vast carved cabinets and an immense, deep
fire-place give an air of antique grandeur to this
room, from which the procession passed into a bright
and charming salon of the style of Louis XV., 30
feet in width by 35 in length, wainscoted in oak and
enriched with carved work and gilding. The whole
wainscoting of this beautiful apartment was brought
from a chateau in France. On the walls hang three
French-Gobelin tapestries a century old, but in the
brilliance and freshness of their coloring seemingly
the work of yesterday, and over the chimney-piece
hangs a superb portrait of Mrs. Vanderbilt by
Madrazo, full of spirit, character, and grace.
The ceiling, exquisitely painted by Paul Bandry,
represents the marriage of Cupid and Psyche, and the
furniture is of the bright and gracious style of
that age of airy arrogance and perfumed coquetry
which preceded the tragedy of the great Revolution.
Thence the procession swept on into the grand
dining-hall, converted last night into a ball-room,
and the dancing began. This dining-room, which is of
the length and width of the gymnasium above, was
brightly illuminated. It is 32 feet in height. The
floor and the ceiling are both in oak, richly
paneled in similar designs; the lower wainscoting, 7
feet in height, is of carved oak, above which is a
temporary wainscoting of a peculiar gilded tapestry
9 feet in height, and above that Caen stone which
reaches the chere-story windows of stained glass
that run all around the apartment. At one end of the
room is a gigantic fire-place, more than 20 feet in
width, the lower part of which is of Carlisle stone
and the upper of carved oak, and at the opposite end
of the room is a music gallery 18 feet from the
floor, whence the music in the words of Emerson,
"poured on mortals its beautiful disdain."
In the "Hobby-horse Quadrille," with which the ball
began, the horses were the most wonderful things of
the kind ever constructed in this country. The
workmen were two months in finishing them. They were
of life-size, covered with genuine hides; bad large,
bright eyes and flowing manes and tails, but were
light enough to be easily and comfortably attached
to the waists of the wearers, whose feet were
concealed by richly embroidered hangings. False legs
were represented on the outside of the blankets, so
the deception was quite perfect. The costumes were
red hunting-coats, white satin rests, yellow satin
knee-breeches, white satin stockings. The ladies
wore red hunting-coats and white satin skirts,
elegantly embroidered. All the dresses were in the
style of Louis XIV. This quadrille was organized by
Mrs. S.S. Howland, with the help of Mrs. Richard
Irvine, Miss Robert, and Mr. James V. Parker.
The opening quadrille of the ball, however, really
was the "Mother Goose Quadrille." led by Mrs.
Lawrence Perkins as Mother Goose and Mr. Oliver H.
Northcote as a wizard. The other members were Miss
Elise Perkins as Jill, Mr. George Allen as Jack, Mr.
Spencer as Prince Charming, Miss Fannie Perkins as
Miss Muffet, Miss Thoron as Little Red Riding Hood,
Miss Lamson as Bopeep, Miss Blake as Goody
Two-Shoes, Miss Butler Duncan as Mary Mary Quite
Contrary, Miss Parsons as My Pretty Maid, Mr.
Alexander Butler Duncan as Ping Wing the Pieman's
Son, Mr. Baldwin, Mr. Julian Kean, and Mr. Leavitt
as Squires, and Mr. Lawrence Perkins as the Pieman.
Perhaps the most brilliant quadrille of the evening
was the "Opera Bouffe." organized by Mrs. Fernando
Yznaga, sister of Mrs. W.K. Vanderbilt. In this
quadrille appeared Mrs. James R. Potter, Mrs.
Clarence Carv. Mrs. Frank Lawrence, Miss Leroy, Mrs.
George Rives, and Miss Smith another sister of Mrs.
W.K. Vanderbilt. Another striking quadrille was the
"Star Quadrille," organized by Mrs. William Astor.
In this quadrille appeared Mrs. Lloyd Bryce, Miss
Astor, Miss Beckwith, Miss Carroll, Miss Hoffman,
Miss Marie, Miss Warren, and Miss McAllister. These
ladies were arrayed as twin stars in four different
colors-yellow, blue, mauve, and white. The gentlemen
were led by Mr. Lloyd Boyce and Mr. Lanler in
costumes of Henri Deux. Still another was the old
"Dresden Quadrille," led by Mrs. James Strong, in
which appeared Miss Etta Strong, Miss Oelrichs, Miss
Dana of Paris; Miss Annie Cunard, Miss Lanier, Miss
Swan, Miss Cowlin and Miss Waldo. They wore wavy
white satin, every appurtenance of which was of pure
white. The dresses of the ladies had bonffant
paniers, short sleeves and skirts and low bodices.
Their hair was powdered and dressed high. The
gentlemen wore the old German Court costume of white
satin, knee-breeches, powdered wigs, and a white
narcissus in the button-hole. The mark of the
Dresden factory was embroidered on both the ladies
and gentlemen's costumes.
Among the hundreds of striking and unique costumes
but a few can possibly be noted. These, however,
will convey some idea of the scene as it presented
itself at midnight, when the hall, the grand
stairway, and the spacious apartments were all
thronged with animated groups enjoying the double
pleasure of seeing and of being seen.
Mrs. Vanderbilt's irreproachable taste was seen to
perfection in her costume as a Venetian Princess
taken from a picture by Cabanel. The underskirt was
of white and yellow brocade, shading from the
deepest orange to the lightest canary, only the high
lights being white. The figures of flowers and
leaves were outlined in gold, white, and iridescent
beads: light-blue satin train embroidered
magnificently in gold and lined with Roman red.
Almost the entire length of the train was caught up
at oe side, forming a large puff. The waist was of
blue satin covered with gold embroidery the dress
was cut square in the neck, and the flowing sleeves
were of transparent gold tissue. She wore a Venetian
cap, covered with magnificent jewels, the most
noticeable of these being a superb peacock in many
colored gems.
Lady Mandeville, who received the guests with Mrs.
Vanderbilt, wore a costume in most fortunate
contrast with the toilet of Mrs. Vanderbilt. Her
dress was copied from a picture by Vandyke of a
Princess de Croy. The petticoat was of black satin
embroidered in jet. The body and train were of black
velvet, ornamented with heavy jet embroidery. The
dress had large puffed Vandyke sleeves, an immense
stand-up collar of Venetian lace, the sleeves being
turned up with the same lace. The whole was crowned
with a black Vandyke bat and drooping pinnies,
turned up at one side and blazing with jewels.
Nothing could have been more becoming to Lady
Mandeville's blonde beauty than this magnificent and
somber dress.
Mr. W.K. Vanderbilt appeared as the Duke de Guise,
wearing yellow silk tights, yellow and black trunks,
a yellow doublet and a black velvet cloak
embroidered in gold, with the order of St. Michael
suspended on a black ribbon, and with a white wig,
black velvet shoes and buckles.
Mr. Cornelius Vanderbilt appeared as Louis XVI. in a
habit de cour and breeches of fawn-colored brocade,
trimmed with silver point d'Espagne, a waistcoat of
reseda, trimmed with real silver lace. The
stockings, shoes, and hat were of reseda. He wore a
jabot and ruffles of lace.
Mrs. Cornelius Vanderbilt appeared as the "Electric
Light," in white satin trimmed with diamonds, and
with a magnificent diamond head-dress. Mrs.
Cornelius Vanderbilt was accompanied by her children
daintily appareled, one as a rose, in pink tulle,
with a satin overdress of green leaves, a waist of
green satin and a head-dress of white satin,
fashioned like a bouquet-holder: another as Sinbad
the Sailor, in white satin breeches, a white
chemisette, a flying jacket, embroidered in gold,
and Turkish shoes, and a third as a little courtier,
in a light-blue satin hand-embroidered coat, with
waistcoat and breeches of white satin, and
embroidered in roses and daisies.
Miss Ada Smith, a sister of Mrs. Vanderbilt, wore,
as a peacock, a dazzling costume of peacock-blue
satin, the waist composed of real peacock's breast,
with a peacock cap and fan. The train and the front
of the dress were covered with the peacock's breast,
with a peacock cap and fan. The train and the front
of the dress were covered with the peacock feathers.
Another similar costume was worn by Mrs. Buchanan
Winthrop.
Mrs. Seward Webb, Mr. Vanderbilt's sister, wore, as
a hornet, a brilliant waist of yellow satin, with a
brown velvet skirt and brown gauze wings. This dress
was paralleled by another representing a wasp, of
purple and black gold gauze, with horizontal stripes
of black and yellow, and a transparent gold tissue
overdress. A special head-dress was imported for
this costume, with antennas of diamonds. Yellow
gloves striped with black were worn with it.
Miss Terry, as Summer, wore light blue and white
satin trimmed with sheaves of wheat and with a
jeweled scythe and corn flowers in her hair.
Another very picturesque costume was that of a
Daughter of the Forest, with ferns and butterflies
in her hair and necklace of jeweled lizards. The
dress was of green velvet trimmed with natural ferns
12 inches deep, ivy, wild roses, and shells. The
gloves and shoes were green, and the bouquets of
ferns.
Miss Work, as Joan of Arc, attracted great
attention. She wore a white china crape, embroidered
in silver fleur de lees, with a culrass, helmet, and
gauntlets of solid silver mail, the bodice,
leggings, and shoes being of steel cloth and the
spurs of steel.
Mrs. G.G. Haven wore a very handsome dress of terra
cotta brocade and white satin, as a Princess, the
daughter of Henri Deux.
Mr. Fred Nelson appeared as Henri Deux himself in a
dress of black velvet embroidered with gold. Mr.
Thomas Maitland made an effective Capuchin monk of
the barefooted order, with hood and sandals.
Miss Hunt as a Court lady of the time of Francis II.
wore a velvet dress of a singular shade of brown
trimmed with Jewels. Mr. Hamilton Fish Webster came
as a Spanish muleteer, in a brown velvet jacket and
breeches, with a blue satin vest covered with
buttons.
Mrs. George L. Rives, as La Perichole, wore a short
dress with an overdress made of a Roman sash, the
dress being trimmed with gold fringes, and on her
arms bangles with sequins.
Miss Bessie Webb appeared as Mme. Le Diable in a red
satin dress with a black velvet demon embroidered on
it and the entire dress trimmed with "demon
fringe"-that is to say, with a fringe ornamented
with the heads and horns of little demons.
This dress contrasted very effectively with the
costume of Miss Butler-Duncan, as "Mary, Mary, quite
contrary" a brocade panler worn over a yellow satin
skirt, the dress being trimmed not only with silver
bells and cockle shells, but with "little maids all
in a row." a series of exquisitely hand-painted
little virginal heads smiling out of the petals and
cups of flowers.
Mr. Brockholst Cutting, as Blue Beard, wore a dress
of blue and silver cloth, with blue silk tights and
a gray felt hat with blue and gray plumes.
The young Duke de Morny wore a Court dress of Louis
XV., of plum velvet embroidered with steel and
rubies, and lined with the color called "crushed
strawberry." The buttons were made of real diamonds,
rubies, and sapphires, and the chapeau was of velvet
trimmed with feathers.
Mr. Herbert Wadsworth appeared as Don Juan, in white
satin, slashed and puffed with black velvet and
embroidered with gold and silver.
Mr. Henry Clews appeared as Louis XV., in chocolate
and gray satin, while Mrs. Clews personated Fire, in
a gorgeons costume of iridescent bronze, over
flaming yellow satin.
Mr. Wright Sanford wore a Court dress of the time of
Louis XV., of gray satin: Mr. J. Sanford a Court
dress of Louis XV., of blue satin.
Mr. Abram S. Hewitt appeared as King Lear while yet
in his right mind, and the costumes of his three
daughters attracted much attention. Miss Sallie
Hewitt's dress as a Persian Princess was superbly
embroidered by hand, and that too by a New York
woman, Mrs. Wheeler, whose handicraft deserves
commendation. The youngest Miss Hewitt made a most
picturesque Dutch maiden.
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