The well dressed woman; is she not the woman who is always dressed appropriately for the occasion? The secret is not learned without social experience. Different functions in well bred society call for different costumes, and one had better forego the pleasure of any particular entertainment than not to try to conform to the correct style. The Majority of people who visit the loan exhibition of women's portraits find as much pleasure in reviewing the crowd of well dressed society leaders as in looking at the charming portraits on the walls. November is usually a gay month. For weeks consumes have been in preparation for the annual horse show, the debutante teas, the afternoon receptions and the day weddings which crowd the month.

Calling Cape

According to the laws of social etiquette, the calling season in town does not begin until this month. One markedly handsome toilet is prepared for formal calling, the chief features of which are a pretty bonnet and a rich wrap. Very often this suit in particular is an imported one. A Paris calling costume has the skirt made of a rich fabric, in which silk and velvet are interwoven with a faille ground of red gleaming through the black. The waist is a happy combination of the material, red mousseline de soie and black satin ribbons. The cape is of black velour's du nord, with a shorter shoulder cape jetted all over and edged with black ostrich tips. The Medici's flaring collar is composed entirely of small tips and is of course, left slightly open to show the becoming red velvet stock beneath.

These costly capes, or collets, as the French call them, seem to be the accepted garment for calling trips. They are jaunty, fancy and convenient. They do not crush like a coat the elaborate waist underneath. The calling cape shown is of black velvet with a fancy collar and ruffle of plated chiffon and Vandyke point trimmings. Small capotes or bonnets are selected to accompany calling costumes. The gloves worn are pearl glace kid. Muffs and boas are often worn to complete such toilets.

The debutante is a decided feature of all social gayeties during this month and quite naturally prefers to make her first courtesy to society at an evening dance rather than an afternoon tea. The laws are very strict concerning every detail of her dress, which are quite different from those of her sister, who has been out a season or two. Her dress for dancing may flare to six yards in width at foot but must only touch the floor. For dinners she must wear a high waist but for afternoon tea or evening dance she may wear a décolleté corsage, which, as a rule, is of chiffon, the corsage, which, as a rule, is of chiffon, the skirt being of silk. White is accepted for the debut gown, a second one of pink being ready to alternate with this for the gayeties likely to follow in her behalf. A pretty coming out dress in white has the skirt of moiré striped with satin. The fichu drapery is of white silk muslin and the ruffled collarets is bordered with two rows of white satin ribbon. The belt, choux and bow knots are of pink velvet. The puffed sleeves are of moiré with velvet bands. White net strewn with raised embroidered spots in white silk is pretty material for a debutante's gown. This is very effective trimmed with yellow satin ribbon or yellow velvet.

During the early winter festivities the young matron may be said to dominate the drawing room. Special elegant costumes are designed for her afternoons at home or for her more formal receptions. A youthful, French dress for a young married woman when receiving informally is made with a jacket corsage opening over a vest of accordion plaited mousseline de soie. The skirt is of bright figured brocade and the jacket is finished with a large square collar, trimmed with lace. The elbow sleeves are completed by a wide ruffle of lace. The coat in some shape is a feature of Parisian receptions gowns. A very elegant model has a skirt of yellow peau de soie with a golden brown Louis XIV coat, trimmed with passementerle and opening on a satin vest. The elbow sleeves terminate in satin cuffs and lace ruffles. Such a decided historical costume is worn by Madame only in her own home.

The popular reception dress is a modification of this elaborate coat costume. The skirt may be of crepon, brocade or figured silk, with a velvet bodice. In the design illustrated the skirt material is a fancy crepon, the coat Basque is a bright blue velvet, edged with embroidered bands. A narrow belt fastens with a choice gold buckle.

Velvet costumes are quite regal looking and promise to be much worn. Among the fancies are deep, rich colored velvets, trimmed with guipure points. Again the side breadths are ornamented with satin leaf appliqué designs or with arabesques in gold passementeries.

Redingote coats are getting to be more and more prominent as outside garments. They are decidedly smart looking on good figures and are made for the most part of satin finished cloth, with little or no trimming, except the velvet faced collar. Those who desire something a bit exclusive having tired of the cape and jacket, find the long redingote satisfactory. The beauty of this coat depends on the quality of the cloth, the fit and finish, some of the more elegant ones being lined with delicate brocades. What a satisfaction it is to a fastidious woman to show a silken lining when she opens her coat or lifts her dress skirt.

Ostrich tips promise to be more popular this winter than flower sprays for evening corsage garnitures. In case of a pink silk muslin décolleté waist a cluster of fine pink tips ornamented each shoulder with a larger cluster in front of corsage. Fur is also used to outline low necks.

So great has been the cushion fad for several seasons, it would seem as if nothing new could be found in this particular line of holiday fancy work. The designers, however, for the exchanges have been busy and the results are often decidedly novel. A very large and effective all white cushion on close examination is found to be made of cream white sateen with pretty corners formed by appliqués of the new detachable gulpure points which can be seen at all the lace counters. These single bits of lace in leaf designs are especially pretty for such a purpose. The cushion was edged with a wide frill of lace. The Javanese cottons which have just come into use here make very gay sofa cushions and in-expensive ones for common use. Oriental looking pillows are made from orange red and Egyptian red satins, covered with weird patterns imitating Japanese dragons and Egyptian pottery. Spangled ribbons are used to frill these gorgeous cushions.

The Smyrna and torchon lace doilies found on linen counters are not used alone for tea tables, but are put to a variety of uses. The daintiest pin cushion is one of silk covered with a lace doily resting upon a box, plaited ruffles of soft satin ribbon with full bows on the four corners. These small open work squares are also used for sachets, work bags, handkerchief cases and pillow covers.

Out of countless useful and pretty bag arrangements, that meant for holding face powder and crimp hair pins may be especially mentioned, because so convenient for toilet purpose. The fastidious society woman likes her own flesh powder, her own glove buttoner and her own extra hair pins when at a reception or ball. These bags are made of silk and lined with chamois with a round, firm pasteboard bottom. They are large enough to hold a box of powder, puff and a scalloped piece of chamois, which is even better than the puff for the face. In this bag are kept always ready an extra button hook, glove buttoner and a box of crimp pins. It hangs beside madam's toilet table, and when going out to an evening function, she hangs it over her arm. She knows it contains everything she is likely to need when putting the last touches to her toilette.